Thursday, August 21, 2008

The Ranch House Barbecue


GLEN ROSE: The Ranch House Barbecue
1408 N.E. Big Bend Trail (Hwy 67)
Glen Rose, TX 76043
254-897-3441
Open W-Thur 11-8, F-Sat 11-9, Sun 11-5


There's an idyllic BBQ location along the ighway in Glen Rose called The Ranch House. There are huge shade trees surrounding this quaint wooden building with a deep dining porch along the front of the place. On my first trip, the brisket arrived sauced, so I was sure to order sauce on the side on the second visit. The brisket was moist and tender with a decent crust and slight smoke line. The flavor was good, but lacked smoke. The spare ribs were large with a smoky crust and deep flavor throughout. A heavy rub also gave it a bit of a sweet flavor. The only negative was that they were slightly dry, so I added a little of that sauce to remedy it. The thick spicy sauce was excellent, and even better on the side.

Rating ***


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Sugar Baby's

DALLAS: Sugar Baby’s
1054 Regal Row

Dallas, TX 7524
7214-631-7039
Open M-Thur 11-6, F 11-8, Sat-Sun 11-3

www.sugarbabysbbq.com/

Update 2009
This joint is CLOSED. It has been replaced by another Soulman's location.

2008
Sugar Baby's was busy over lunch, so I'm guessing this area of town is starved for 'cue of any kind, because this trip was not enjoyable. The ribs were an enigma. The first three bites were bursting with good smoke flavor, and the next two bites tasted of hours-old meat. If the ribs were inconsistent, the brisket was consistent in every way. There were positively gobs of unrendered fat throughout the meat, it was all the same color...gray, and the flavor was like eating bad roast beef with a cold.

Rating *

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Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Luling Bar-B-Que

LULING: Luling Bar-B-Que
709 E. Davis
Luling, TX 78648
830-875-3848
Open W-M 7-6


There is ample competition just on the other side of the square from the famous City Market in Luling, but this joint holds its own. Ordering is done at the counter, and prices here are very reasonable. I ordered a two-meat plate with brisket and ribs. The sliced beef had average tenderness and average flavor from the non-existent rub. The smoke was decent, but not as robust as its neighbor. Each slice was perfectly moist with a good black crust and smoke line, but it just needed more flavor. The ribs also had a great crust with good exterior flavor, but the flavor and smoke did not permeate the meat. The tenderness was fine, but there was too much unrendered fat under the layers of meat. With a more robust rub, and more time in the smoker, this meat could really contend.

Rating ***


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DISCLAIMER:

Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.

-THE PROPHETS OF SMOKED MEAT