Bill Miller Bar-B-Q

SAN ANTONIO: Bill Miller Bar-B-Q
10939 W Fm-471
San Antonio, TX 78253
210-688-2362
Open Sun-W 10:30-8, Thur-Sat 10:30-9
www.billmillerbbq.com/

You won't smell smoke when arriving at a Bill Miller location. All 67 locations are supplied by meat smoked in a central commissary in downtown San Antonio. Their popularity in San Antonio is evidenced by the how many stores are supported, and the commissary location explains the franchise's geographical limits. According to their website, all meat is smoked in brick pits (no gas or electric) using only post oak. Briskets are smoked for 18-20 hours, then shipped to each location where everything is assembled like any other fast food assembly line. Most everything about Bill Miller reminds you of a well run fast food chain from the brightly lit menu advertising combo meals, to the cashier yelling orders through a microphone back to the herd of worker bees assembling the meal.



Standard sides are beans and fried potatoes, the latter of which were addictive with their crunch and black pepper. The brisket was also good. The lean slices were very moist with good flavor. A nice crust supplied a bit of smoke flavor, but there was little other evidence that meat had been smoked for upwards of 18 hours. Ribs were not as successful in the flavor department. The meat was in short supply on the bone and the bark wasn't well formed. A rub heavy on the black pepper was about the only flavor that stood out, while smoke was lacking. A dip in the thin acidic sauce didn't help.

The chain is also know for their fried chicken, so I ordered a thigh. For less than $2, I got a decent variation of a freshly fried chicken thigh with a crisp flavorful crust along with hearty steak fries and fresh tasting cole slaw.



I admire Bill Miller because they don't claim to be Texas's best BBQ, they just put out a consistent product for a good price that is imminently predictable. While it might not be the best in the state, there are definitely worse places to go to ease your smoked meat cravings.

Rating **

The Smokehouse

SAN ANTONIO: The Smokehouse
3306 Roland Rd
San Antonio, TX 78210
210-333-9548
Open Tues-Sat 11-8, Sun 11-6
www.thesmokehousesa.com

As I pondered my order, a surly pitmaster noticed my FCGBBQ t-shirt, and made some smart comments about me spying on his joint to get some tips for mine. He didn't know I was just there to review it, so it was great to talk with afterward to tell him how good it was. After the jovial verbal sparring, I ordered up some ribs, sliced brisket and sliced pork.



Brisket was cut from the fatty end. There was plenty of fat left on the slices, but it was all well rendered to make the slices meltingly tender. The bark was well formed, and the heavy salt rub combined with 24 hours in an all mesquite fired smoker created a brittle and dry crust, but coupled with the moist meat, it made for a great combination. The pork came from the shoulder. It had well rendered fat throughout the slice and a great bark. The overall flavor was so good that it's got to be some of the best pork shoulder I've eaten. Meaty spare ribs had a great bark, but could have been smoked a bit longer to get the meat more tender. The rub, if any, was light and allowed the flavor of the pork and smoke to shine through.

When the meal was over, I gave the pitmaster my card, and let him know how well I liked it. He laughed and just welcomed us to come back for some more great smoked meat. I think I'll take him up on that repeat visit.

Rating ****

McKinzie Liquor & BBQ

FORT WORTH: McKinzie Liquor & BBQ
154 N Riverside
Fort Worth, TX 76111
817-838-0005
Open M-Sat 10-8

Barbeque inside a liquor store usually isn't a recipe for success. I can just envision the pitmaster eying the stocked shelves between bouts of stoking the fire, and ending up passed out with an empty bottle of Jack and a dying fire. Not so here at McKinzie where the meat is well smoked, and many of the shelves have been removed to make space for clean counter height tables lined with barstools.



I placed my order at the back of the store, and it arrived quickly. Ribs lacked a significant bark, but the smokiness was still there. These baby backs were well seasoned and well cooked leading to moist and flavorful pork. Brisket slices were a bit dry and could have used more smokiness, but the flavor was good, and the crust had a good smoky flavor. The bit of fat left on each slice was well rendered, and the sauce added a nice sweet compliment to the meat. No matter the setting, this was some above average BBQ.

Rating ***