Polak's Sawsage Farm

KARNES CITY: Polak's Sawsage Farm
2835 S Highway 181
Karnes City, TX 78118
830-583-2113
Open M-Tues 8:30-8:30, Thur 8:30-8:30, F-Sat 8:30-9, Sun 8:30-3
www.polaksausagefarm.com/

If I could judge this joint on sides and items on the menu besides the barbecue, then it might get a more solid endorsement, but the barbecue at Polak's Sawsage Farm isn't worth stopping for.

A side of sauerkraut flecked with bits of smoked meat was well seasoned with just the right amount of crispness. A German potato salad was richer than expected in a good way. I finished them both. The homemade sausage links was decent, but the casings hadn't crisped up at all and there was little evidence of smoke. It made me wonder if maybe the sausage wasn't smoked. The brisket on the other hand was inexcusable. It had been sliced then rewarmed on a flat top back in the kitchen. The surfaces of the slice (singular) were browned and the edges were crispy. I cringed as I took a bite knowing that it wouldn't be pleasant. It wasn't.

Rating * 

Lil' Joe's Bar-B-Que

ROSEBUD: Lil' Joe's Bar-B-Que
212 N 5th.
Rosebud, TX 76570
254-583-7383
Open Thur-Sun 11-6

You wouldn't think that a town the size of Rosebud, Texas (population 1,412) could support three barbecue joints, but then you find the small painted wooden sign for Lil' Joe's along the highway just inside the city limits. A bit of Dallas Cowboys memorabilia decorates the small dining room, and orders are placed at a back counter. I took a three meat combo of sausage, brisket and spare ribs to go.

Out at the car I could smell the smoke which got even stronger when I opened the box. The colors were right, but the black crust of the ribs was just too much. They were overcooked and falling off the bone while also being oversmoked with a distinct taste of creosote. The brisket had a more appropriate level of smoke but it was so dry it crumbled apart. A well spiced sausage was enjoyable enough, but not enough to save the plate of what was otherwise poorly executed barbecue.

Rating **

Jake 'N' Boo's Backdoor Bar & Grill

ROSEBUD: Jake 'N' Boo's Backdoor Bar & Grill
341 W Main St.
Rosebud, TX 76570
254-583-7827
Open Thur 11-8, F-Sat 11-9, Sun 11-6

There's something ironic about the feeling I get after seeing the walls of a barbecue joint lined with competition trophies. This should be a good sign that several panels of judges have found the owner's barbecue enjoyable, albeit in a different setting. Unfortunately, there rarely seems to be a correlation between barbecue competition prowess and great restaurant barbecue, which is why I was suspicious when walking into Jake 'N' Boo's. There were trophies and plaques everywhere and not another customer in sight during our mid-afternoon visit. We sat down after ordering a meat sampler plate at the bar.

Just as important as the cooking of barbecue in a restaurant setting is how it is held through the day. This isn't a challenge on the competition circuit where the meat is sliced, plated and served immediately after smoking. One method for holding is to keep the meat in a broth or drippings, or to use those drippings to brush the meat. This can awaken dry meat and provide an extra oomph of flavor. An overly salty broth can also overwhelm the meat. This was the case at Jake 'N' Boo's where every item we tasted had a similar greasy film and overly salty flavor. The chicken stood out as being extremely overcooked and mushy while the rib and brisket were both incredibly dry despite the added moisture. It was just a sad plate of barbecue, and I can't say that I saw enough potential to think it would have been much better a few hours earlier.

Rating *