Tuesday, March 8, 2011

China, Ethanol & BBQ


What do those three things have in common, you ask? They all live alongside one another in that world of simple economics called 'supply and demand'. Not only is the demand for beef increasing, the demand for its number one food source is skyrocketing. All of this is occurring at the same time that our cattle herds are dwindling, and our domestic grain stockpiles are lower than they've been since 1974.

I reported about the rising costs of pork and brisket back in April of last year, but they just keep rising. On a local level, pitmasters like Billy McDonald of Mac's have seen their wholesale brisket prices go from $1.86 in December of 2010 to $2.23 in the past few weeks. The folks at Lockhart Smokehouse were paying $2.15/lb in their first week, and it's only getting more expensive. Since last year at this time, beef prices have risen 9.7% while retail pork prices are up 9.9%. Given that brisket is a cut that loses +/- 30% of its weight during smoking, the effect of a spike in the cost of the raw slab is exaggerated when comparing it to the weight of the finished product. Brent Deen of Eddie Deen's Crossroads BBQ in Arlington said they've been able to control the price of their raw products through price hedging. While their competitors are paying over $2.15 or more per pound, the Deen's are locked in at $1.90 per pound with their supplier. It was gamble that been paying big dividends to the company lately.

So what's responsible for all of these high prices? The blame can't be pinned on one source, but a huge factor is simply low domestic supply. Cattle are fattened on a diet that consists of mostly corn, so as the price of corn rises, the cost to fatten cattle increases. Last year those high corn prices caused many ranchers to send a higher than normal portion of their herd to market. They wanted to not only cash in on the high beef prices, and also decrease the amount of corn they needed to buy to feed those herds, thus causing an overall dip in the country's supply of beef. A higher foreign demand has also had a dramatic effect on our domestic supply of beef. President Obama convinced South Korea that mad cow disease is but a distant memory, so they have reestablished their American beef imports. More importantly, the USDA estimates Chinese imports of pork will gain 5.7 percent in 2011 and beef purchases will advance 43 percent. That's some expensive brisket.

Ethanol is ballyhooed as the country's savior in the fight against foreign oil. Unfortunately, ethanol is not only a zero net energy source (it takes, on average, 1 gallon of gasoline to create 1 gallon of ethanol), but it also effects our domestic food prices. With about 39% of the domestic corn crop going to ethanol, it just follows the most basic rules of economics that the cost of feed corn to ranchers and feed lots is increasing rapidly. Grain futures rallied this past month to the highest since 2008 on the Chicago Board of Trade, and over the past year, corn specifically surged up 95 percent.

Given the lowered supply of beef, increased demand from foreign markets, and increased demand on our corn crop to fuel our oil addiction, it's no wonder the price of brisket is rising. No matter for me, I won't be making it a habit to order chicken regardless.

- BBQ Snob

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Monday, March 7, 2011

Papa Joe's Backyard BBQ


DALLAS: Papa Joe's Backyard BBQ
1233 Newport Avenue

Dallas, TX 75224

214-941-4092

Open Thur 5-7, Fri 5-9, Sat 11-9, Sun 11-7

www.papajoesbackyardbbq.com


Update: This joint is CLOSED.

2011: Given much less notoriety than the recent openings of Lockhart Smokehouse and Luckie's, and a little more than Oak Cliff Barbeque, this joint in the southern part of the Cliff is a family run joint. Families have it made with great food at good prices, and plenty of activities to keep the kids occupied in the attached play area. The building used to be a day care center, so the large, fenced-in play area was already there when renovations began. It took them some time to complete those renovations. When I first met the owners at an BBQ event in Mesquite, they had plans to open by May of 2010, but when construction starts and permits are required, sometimes those fast-track schedules can go out the window.



When we arrived on a beautiful Saturday afternoon, it seemed that word hadn't really gotten out on the opening. During our hour long meal, there were only two other tables occupied. We ordered a little of everything, and took our seats. We forced a few bites down our daughter's throat before we gave up entirely and let her take a few turns down the slide. I dove into the crusty and smoky ribs that featured a heavy rub and plenty of good smoke. The meat was tender and moist, and was easily the best meat option. The Southern Pride smokers here didn't get much smoke on the brisket which tasted of little more than simple roast beef. The moist slices were still pleasing with that rub and even better with a bit of the house sauce.



Sausage links were also light on the smoke, but had a great black pepper bite. The casings snapped nicely, and the flavor was great if unfamiliar. Rubbery skin was quickly discarded from the chicken leg quarter to get right to the moist chunks of smoky meat. Side options are varied, and all are very well done including the fried-to-order okra and the ultra creamy shells and cheese. Skip the banana pudding which features the acidic taste of fake banana flavoring. Real Texas banana pudding should have three things - sliced bananas, Nilla wafers and vanilla pudding. For a oplace that gets so many other things right, they need to get this down.

Rating ***
Papa Joe's Backyard BBQ on Urbanspoon

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Friday, March 4, 2011

BBQ in the News


Joe Cotten's BBQ is a legend in Texas. It's been around for 65 years, and the permanent Robstown location has been open since 1968. Sadly, on Wednesday night that building was burnt to the ground. I was sad to have never made it there to try the 'cue, but they vow to reopen.

Franklin BBQ in Austin will close the best barbecue trailer in Texas for good this Sunday and will reopen on March 12th in their new location on 11th St. just a couple miles south.

A Houston police officer, who was competing at the recent Stock Show BBQ competition in Houston, was arrested and fired after tossing some tear gas into a competitor's tent. Talk about sportsmanship.

Robb Walsh is looking for some help to identify this BBQ joint.

He thinks it might have been in San Antonio. I wonder if it's related to Fresh Air Bar-B-Que, which opened in 1929 in Jackson, Georgia.

The Observer reports that a couple of former Randy White's BBQ servers have filed for sexual harassment after working for several months at the Mesquite location of the local mini-chain.

Thrillist Dallas just featured the Q Card and my side project Meat Soap in the same week. Get the Q Card for great BBQ savings across the state. Get Meat Soap if you want to wash with meat fat.

Those boys from Man Up Texas BBQ are behind the Q Card, and they also recently named their best BBQ in Texas for 2010. It wasn't Snow's or Franklin BBQ.

In a fit of narcissism, I'll provide some links to an video interview I did with Advocate Magazine in Dallas, and another with Splash Media in Addison. These two videos have little in common besides my balding head.

- BBQ Snob

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DISCLAIMER:

Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.

-THE PROPHETS OF SMOKED MEAT