Wednesday, November 20, 2013

A Fork in the Road

It's not often that a book comes out that I had a hand in. The Prophets of Smoked Meat that came out this May was my first. A Fork in the Road was my second. The book's editor James Oseland asked (or maybe it was suggested to him) that I provide a short account of a food/travel story for the collection. I was excited to write it, and even more giddy when it arrived in the mail this week.

I quickly read throughout the story of traveling through Georgia eating barbecue. These trips took place over several months as my architecture career wound down, and the possibility that I might write about barbecue for living started to take shape. I got to the final line. "We were already late for the next stop." I gasped. There were several paragraphs missing.

A call to James Oseland was met with the same baffled response that I had. He hadn't made the change, and the publisher who had worked on the project was no longer with Lonely Planet. There was no quick way to find out what had transpired, and regardless of the answer the book was already on the shelves. Below is the final sentence that made it into the print version and the four missing paragraphs. Enjoy, as this is the only place you'll see how the story really ends for the time being.

We were already late for the next stop. 
A new location of Grand Champion BBQ had just opened and our friends Dustin and Steven were waiting patiently with owner Robert Owens, who had been kind enough to leave the joint open just for our meal. A feast was laid before us on a large platter and we clawed at the meat, whose quality at this late hour was remarkable. Slices of brisket were well above respectable, pork ribs were tender but in need of smoke, and the pulled pork was so loaded with well-rendered fat and caramelized crust that it was downright decadent. A dip in their thin spicy sauce heightened it. I could have kept eating, but the hour was now late and I was a long way from Warner Robins. I said goodbye to Bill and we both hoped my next visit to Atlanta would be just for the barbecue.  
The final inspection for the project went off without a hitch the following day, so I again found myself with a few extra hours. I drove straight north, right back to Marietta, where Dave Poe’s former business partner Sam Huff manned the pits at Sam’s BBQ1. The menu was a replica of Dave Poe’s, but the only item I preferred here was the stew.  
I dreaded the idea of having eaten at Heirloom Market BBQ only once, so this became my final stop. I thought I was just going to reminisce over a few old favorites, but this time I noticed the chunks of meat in the Korean pork sandwich were chopped rib ends rather than simple pulled pork shoulder. Their tighter muscle structure made for meat with a bit more resistance. I didn’t think the stew could be topped as a side item until I took a bite of the bacon creamed corn, which was richly flavored with smoked pork belly. When I tipped the bowl back to get the last drop, I noticed the banana pudding. It was dense with bananas and had an elegant topping of the lightest meringue. I consider myself a connoisseur of banana pudding and I haven’t had much that matches this. 
Back at the airport I said what will probably be my final goodbye to Roosevelt at the rental counter. This was my last Georgia trip that I would expense back to the firm. I passed him a container of still chilly banana pudding. I didn’t get to see the look on his face when he took a bite, but I’d like to think he licked the bowl. That wasn’t the only unanswered question. What of this Georgia barbecue style? The old tradition of pork, slaw and Brunswick stew still has a solid grasp in rural Georgia, but the new joints in Atlanta put just as much stock in their brisket and Mac N Cheese. Some of these innovations will fade and others will become just as entrenched in tradition as the chopped pork at Fresh Air, but the thread that ties them all together is that wonderful omnipresent stew.

This is one of those situations where there's no need to cry about it. Nothing can be done unless there is a second printing. If you bought the book and wondered why I can't finish a story properly here's your answer. I'll also remind you that there are thirty-three other great, and complete, stories in the collection that is A Fork in the Road. Thanks again to James Oseland for including me in such great company, and here's to a second printing.

Read the rest!

Monday, May 6, 2013

The POSM Book Events Calendar


5/9 Seattle - Book signing and Seattle Brisket Experience dinner. Ticketed event, sold out.

5/14 New York - Book launch at Barnes & Noble in Union Square with Anthony Bourdain. Public Event

5/15 Brooklyn - Brisket party by BrisketTown. Sold out.

5/17 Dallas - Private party

5/19 Chicago - Book signing at Macy's with Anthony Bourdain at noon. Public event.

5/22 Austin - Book signing at Bookpeople with BBQ from Micklethwait Craft Meats and beer from Saint Arnold. Public event.

5/24 San Antonio - Book signing at Two Bros. Barbecue Market from 6-9. Public event.

5/25 Dallas - Book signing and barbecue at Four Corners Brewery. VIP ticket or general admission.

5/30 Atlanta - Book signing and dinner at Fox Bros. BBQ. Ticketed event.

6/15 Houston - Book signing at Leibman's Fine Foods from 1-3, then at River Oaks Bookstore from 4-6. Public events.

6/17 Dallas - Book Signing at the Preston/Park Barnes & Noble at 7:00. Public event.

6/18 Cleveland - Dinner at Greenhouse Tavern at 6:00. Ticketed event.

6/20 Fort Worth - Book Signing at TCU Bookstore at 5:00. Public event.

6/21 Oklahoma City - Book Signing at Full Circle Bookstore at 3:00. Public event.

8/22 Dallas - Book Signing at Lockhart Smokehouse from 11-2.

8/27 Dallas - Book Signing at the Dubliner on Greenville Ave. from 5-7.

- BBQ Snob

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Monday, April 22, 2013

Hammerheads


KENTUCKY: Hammerheads
921 Swan St.
Louisville, KY 40204
502-365-1112
Open M-Sat 5pm - 10pm

www.louisvillehammerheads.com

Driving down a residential street in Louisville I thought I may be in the wrong part of town, but soon I noticed the glow coming out of the windows at Hammerheads along with a very large shark tacked up to the wall above the door. You'll need to duck shortly after walking through the door because Hammerheads is located in the basement of a house and has some low ceilings. A long bar is at the right and what remains is a small dining room. It gets packed and it gets loud, but before long we each had a beer and a table.


The menu is wide and includes more than just barbecue. It is expectedly meat-heavy, but there is a salad, a veggie burger and veggie tacos. We didn't order any of them. First on the table were an array of sliders. The only bite of brisket I had was a thin slice on one of the sliders. It and the pulled pork were fine if unremarkable, but it's hard to shine next to the ridiculously good duck sliders. Next up was a fried smoked cheddar grit cake which was crisp on the outside and smoky and creamy on the inside.


Giant mac & cheese balls were more fried cheesy goodness, but the grit cake just seems less gimmicky, more well conceived, and far less rich.


As the meats came out they were all served on wooden cutting boards. A rack of baby back ribs was very tender, almost too much so. The smokiness went deep into the rosy meat which was a nice counterpoint to the sweet rub and finishing glaze. There was no need for barbecue sauce.


I've seen few smoked meat items so rich on a menu as the PBLT. Four thick slices of pork belly (the PB in the equation) were beautifully smoked. The fat was silky and the ribbons of meat in between were yielding but tender. The black crust was stout and the sweetness from the rub was pleasantly restrained. I must admit that I don't know how it all tasted as a sandwich because we ate the slices of belly too quickly.


Our table was getting crowded with food, but we managed to find some real estate for the three kinds of fries. We got the original, the sweet potato and a version dusted with the famous Grippo's BBQ spice from the Cincinnati chip company. For just $3 extra, you are provided the option to get any or all of the varieties fried in duck fat. Of course we did, and they were stunning. The Grippo's version is mandatory if you're eating here.



I saved the best for last. Lamb ribs are a house specialty, and they are incredible. Lamb, especially the ribs, can be very gamey and full of unrendered fat. These ribs suffered from neither of those issues. The dark crust provided a smoky kick along with a pleasant chew to contrast with the tender meat beneath. These ribs should serve as an example to anyone serving this cut.


Hammerheads is a great restaurant with plenty of imagination and mostly spot-on execution. The items I normally judge a joint on are the brisket and pork ribs. Here the brisket was average and the ribs were a bit overcooked. In the end these were the only items on the menu I had any qualms with, and I can't wait to get back to Louisville for another visit to Hammerheads.

Rating ****

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DISCLAIMER:

Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.

-THE PROPHETS OF SMOKED MEAT