Cowboys Barbeque & Rib Co.

COLLEYVILLE: Cowboys Barbeque & Rib Co.
5220 State Hwy 121
Colleyville, TX 76034
817-571-8700
Open M-Thur 11-10, F-Sat 11-11, Sun 11-9

Update 04/2009: This joint is CLOSED. After many trying times and a heap of controversy, Mark Gabrick sold this joint to his new partner Andy Caster, who has a name change in the works. Cowboys will soon become Daddy Joe's, and you can bet that I'll be there to give it a try.

Update 04/2009: I stopped in to try this joint about 6 weeks after their original opening. I was less than impressed on my first visit, but they were just getting started back then and showed some potential. This visit started pleasantly with an offering of some steaming jalapeno cornbread and butter which I enjoyed while waiting for my plate of brisket and ribs.



The pile of brisket was neither sliced nor chopped. The tender moist meat had fallen apart into chunks. Bites with crust were flavorful and smoky, but bites without the crust were a bit roast-beefy. The ribs were the winner here. The meat was deeply red with a substantial crust. A sweet glaze had been applied while smoking, and it added a nice dimension to the overall smoky flavor. The fat was perfectly rendered creating a near silky texture with just enough tooth to it to keep it from being mushy. They were nearly perfect. As with my previous visit, all of the side items were done well. Onion rings and cole slaw were flavorful and fresh. At $14.50, the two-meat plate here is not cheap, but the helpings are large, and I was able to come away with lunch for tomorrow.

One glaring omission on this visit were the words "Great food by Dallas Green" on the sign. The first photo is from February and the second is from April.



It seems Mr. Green is no longer associated with the business, and the food seems to be better for it.

Rating ***

02/2009: Owner Mark Gabrick brought in local BBQ legend Dallas Green, winner of countless national BBQ competitions, to start a brand new (we're talking three days old) BBQ joint in the former Colleyville location of Railhead Smokehouse. Because this joint just opened, I'll cut it a little slack since they need some time to work out the kinks. One of these kinks includes having to haul in a portable smoker to sit in the parking lot until their second smoker arrives in a few weeks. On this busy Sunday afternoon, they were understaffed due to some employee call-ins, but the remaining staff kept up their pace to serve the many customers. I sat at the bar which is designed more for standing than sitting. There's little leg room so my knees bumped against the rough-hewn Austin stone beneath the bar. The beer taps along the bar sat tauntingly as this joint waits for their liquor license, so I ordered an iced tea which wanted for some filtered water.

The menu here gives surprisingly little attention to the traditional BBQ items. Appetizers, salads and steaks seem to be the focus, but as expected, I ordered a plate of brisket, ribs and the waiter recommended sausage. The tender meat of the St. Louis ribs were covered by a dark crust that also hid the layers of fat remaining on the ribs. The meat had a deep red color, and good smokiness with good flavor once the fat was scraped away. The sausage had a medium grind, mild spiciness and a slight snap to the casing. The flavor was pleasing, but lacked complexity. The brisket on the other hand was complexing. The plate arrived with slices so laden with unrendered fat it resembled medium rare bacon. I took a bite for journalistic integrity, then, for the first time in my reviewing career, I sent an item back. The obliging waiter quickly returned with a plate of lean brisket with a delicate crust and moderate smokeline. The slices were moist and tender to the point of falling apart. Outside the crust, the smoky flavor receded into roast beefyness, but the overall flavor was satisfactory. I look forward to a return trip to see if the meat reaches its competition winning potential once this joint's staff and smoker settle in. I also can't wait for a few more of those onion rings.