Rooster's Roadhouse

DENTON: Rooster's Roadhouse
113 Industrial St
Denton, TX 76201
940-382-4227
Open Sun-Thur 11-10, F-Sat 11-11
www.roosters-roadhouse.com

I'd heard about Rooster's a while back on the Dallas Observer's website, and I'd stored it in my brain for just this occasion. The wife and baby and I were on our way to OKC for Easter, and the baby was hungry just as we crossed Lake Lewisville. I quickly put my wife on IPhone duty to search for a solid dinner stop in Denton, then remembered a joint that served BBQ which my wife might actually enjoy. I referred to it as a "burger joint" in my convincing explanation, and in a few minutes I was staring at the back of the menu which features their BBQ options.



Ribs are not an option, so I went for brisket, pulled pork and sausage. The sausage had the most perplexing flavor. It is smoked then cut lengthwise before being slapped down on the flat-top griddle where another layer of flavor is added. The spiciness of the meat was also out of the ordinary for a BBQ joint, then I noticed on their website that they use Syracuse Sausage from Ponder, Texas, which specializes in Italian sausages, and are mainly featured on the menus of fine Italian restaurants in the area. That explains all of those spices.

Pulled pork wasn't quite so dynamic. The meat was average with just a hint of smoke. It was a bit dry, but the overall flavor was fine. Brisket was better with a decent amount of smokiness. The moist meat was perfectly cooked, but it could have used more seasoning to really bring out the flavors. If it's flavor you're after, then the sides is where you need to look. Okra os perfectly crisp and salty, and the spicy "rooster tails" are breaded onions strings that neither of us could stop eating. An authentic banana pudding in a Mason jar was the perfect finish.

After the meal, one of the owners gave me a tour of the J&R Manufacturing pit which uses all hickory wood. He also explained that ribs are just offered as a special because the demand is too hard to determine to keep them on the regular menu. Before I can bump their rating, I'll have to find time to get back to Denton when the ribs are smokin'.

Rating ***