FORT WORTH: Wilson's Bar-B-Q 6513 Brentwood Stair Rd
Fort Worth, TX 76112
817-907-7690
Open M-Thur 11-10, F-Sat 11-Midnight
www.wilsonsbbq.com
Wilson's has traded their meager digs on the west side of Fort Worth for another humble location at the 820/30 interchange on the east side of town. Driving around back to access the drive-thru, I was hoping to catch a glimpse of the smoker, but nothing was in sight. Pulling around to the window I was almost embarrassed for them to ask if they smoked off site, but the man working the window stepped back and pointed to a J&R Manufacturing Little Red Smokehouse sitting in the tiny kitchen. He also mentioned they smoke with pure mesquite, a rarity in the DFW area. I was now too excited to ride all the way without sampling a few bites.
Both meats were intensely smoky. Luckily, they lacked the creosote flavor that can find its way into the surface of the meat when mesquite is being used, so the smokiness didn't overwhelm, but it was certainly unmistakable that this meat had been smoked with all wood. Ribs had a great bark and plenty of bold seasoning, but the meat was bit tough with some unrendered fat. The pork didn't really shine beneath the heavy sauce, but the smoke made itself apparent. Better were the flat cuts of brisket that had a heavy bark and a very thick smokering. The meat was plenty tender and moist, and had a pleasing overall flavor. I'm now curious what they can do with a the fatty end of that brisket.
Rating ***
Try the sausage, don't know where they get it but it's great. Reminded me of Meshack's in texture but with more heat. A welcome addition to the area, I liked the ribs and brisket too. Don't count on them always being open when you expect them to be, I don't think they've got the hang of it yet but hopefully they'll get things worked out.
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