Thursday, August 7, 2008

Walker's Barbeque

DALLAS: Walker's Barbeque
4715 Malcolm X Blvd
Dallas, TX 75215
Open Daily 11-7

Previous reviews of this place warn that a gun is necessary for this neighborhood. Calm yourselves folks, it's just South Dallas, and the people don't bite. Walker's building is sparse, and everything is strictly to-go as noted on the hand written sign at the window that reads "No Eating". I ordered a three meat plate with brisket, ribs and sausage from a friendly guy who noted that I was going straight to sleep if I ate all of it. The order was delivered at the window, and it was robust and aromatic. The aroma tempted me all the way home where I couldn't wait to dig in.

The ribs were small but meaty. The smoke flavor was intense and it permeated the meat. It was possibly the smokiest rib I've tried. The crust had been softened, probably from being stored. The meat had great tenderness, but the fat was not well rendered. The brisket was on the dry side with little crust and no smoke line. I was surprised that this brisket lacked smoke, but I guess the ribs soaked it all up. The flavor of the brisket was decent, but it was mostly roast-beefy. The sausage was flavorful with good snap, but a bit dry as well. Normally, I don't mention sides, but the BBQ beans were smoky and delicious with just the right amount of sweetness. The potato salad tasted homemade with diced bell peppers, and it was also delicious. Overall, if you like smoky ribs, don't be intimidated by the address. The food and the folks are worth the trip.

Rating **

Walker's Barbeque on Urbanspoon

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Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.