Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Hickory House Barbeque

LANCASTER: Hickory House Barbeque
906 N Dallas Ave

Lancaster, TX 75146


Open M-F 5:30-2:30, Sat 5:30-2

I really wanted to like this one. I passed by here on a Saturday afternoon a few months back, but it was closed. The tiny parking lot, the old painted sign and the not-so-gently aged smoker in the back brought visions of moist, smoky slices of brisket and ribs with a beautiful crust, but it was not to be. I arrived with great anticipation last Saturday at 12:30. The parking lots was full, and police cars were abundant. I waited in a short line, and ordered the usual...brisket and ribs. They were already out of ribs, so I settled for the staff recommended sausage. The meats were piled on a plate and then drenched with a pedestrian sauce. The brisket was tough and dry with little smoke or flavor other than that provided by the far-too-generous serving of sauce. The sausage was better, but it was quite fatty with a fine grind and flavor reminscent of Eckrich. The man I perceived to be the owner made one peculiar comment that may explain the brisket's poor texture and flavor. When I questioned the ribs already being gone for the day, he said that he sometimes runs out because ribs don't warm up well, so he can only sell what he cooks in the morning. That statement and the lack of action in the smoker out back made me wonder if he considers it okay to warm up the rest of the meats from day-to-day.

Rating *
Hickory House on Urbanspoon

1 comment:

Ally said...

Perhaps you hit them on a bad day. I think you may have visited around the time the original owner passed away, and they were likely trying to work out some kinks. If you visit Hickory House again I sincerely hope you have a better experience.


Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.