Saturday, January 22, 2011

City Meat Market

GIDDINGS: City Meat Market
101 W. Austin

Giddings, TX 78942


Open M–F 7:30–5:30, Sat 7:30–4

Update: You may remember from the first review, that City Meat Market in Giddings makes their own sausage for the market as well as providing it to Snow's. After just trying it at Snow's we wanted a good comparison of not only the sausage, but the brisket as well. I enjoyed my first trip here enough to give it four stars, and they were kind enough to display the certificate I sent right next to their mention in Texas Monthly's latest Top 50 BBQ issue.

The meats together just didn't have the same most and tender quality of Snow's, even the sausage. It was a bit less smoky and quite a bit dryer. It was again amazing to see just how different the same raw links can taste after a few hours in different smokers. Brisket and ribs were better than the photo reveals/ The beef slices were thick with a nice line of fat, but were oddly sliced with rather than against the grain. Even the most tender brisket will be tough to chew when sliced in that way. Ribs had great seasoning and flavor, and were the smokiest meat of the bunch, but they were a bit dry. I should have asked for some longer ribs near the center of the rack which is possible here since you get to watch as your order is being sliced right in front of you.

While it wasn't quite as good as the first trip, it was close, and would have been much better given more careful slicing of the brisket. I like this place and plan to return in hopes that it will produce an experience more like the first visit.

Rating ****

2009: Thousands of drivers a day pass through Giddings along Texas Highway 290 on their way between Austin and Houston. They would all do themselves a favor if they stopped right in the center of town to sample the fine meats smoked at City Meat Market. This is a true meat market with cases full of steaks, ground beef and sausage right inside the door. Walking back beyond the cases and through the small dining area, all the while drawn by the seductive smell of post oak smoke, you find the entry door into the pit area simply labeled "IN".

All that now separates you from the smokers full of meat is a short counter and the freindly pit boss, Gerald. He was happy to slice my order of brisket, pork ribs and sausage and curl it up on a pile of butcher paper. The ribs and sausage were taken straight out from under the heavy smoker lid, but Gerald pierced the brisket with a large carving fork and lifted it from a metal vat full of a deep brown liquid. He explained that instead of wrapping the brisket to keep it moist, he stored it in a vat of captured brisket juices...a smoky Central Texas au jus. No matter how it's stored, all of the meats came out picture perfect, and steaming hot.

The sausage was an enigma. City Meat Market supplies Snow's with their sausage, and it was delicious and smoky just thirty minutes earlier in Lexington. This version had the same texture but was drier, far less smoky, and simply not as good in this reviewer's opinion. The brisket was excellent with a nice smokeline, and the crust had not deteriorated as you might expect with it soaking in liquid. Another thing that you'd expect from soaking the brisket is that it would stay ultra moist, but this wasn't the case. The tender slices were slightly dry, but the fat was well rendered and the smoky flavor ran deep. The ribs were the best and smokiest offering with a heavy salt and pepper rub over a deep red crust. The meat was moist and flavorful, but a little on the tough side. Overall, this is obviously a joint that pays close attention to their meat, and takes great pride in the product they turn out, but they weren't quite up to five star standards on this day.

Rating ****
City Meat Market on Urbanspoon


Anonymous said...

We went through the drive through 1/22/11 around 2;15p and ordered chopped pork sandwiches. There was a bone in mine, the meat was not all chopped (2 big dry hunks)and teh sandwich as a whole was dry and not very tasty. Fro Texas BBQ, I give it a big fat F. And @ $5 ea, not worth the money. I have lived in Lufkin all my life and have enjoyed their beans, p salad and rolls for years, but after this experience, I will not go back for anything.

DrillerAA09 said...

I introduced my wife to Railroad BBQ in Kyle last Friday. Lunch was great. The brisket and sausage were as good as ever.

BBQ Snob said...

I don't remember seeing a drive thru at City Market in Giddings. Are you sure this is where you visited?

missyb said...

City Meat Market in Giddings does not have a drive thru nor does it serve chopped pork sandwiches. Wrong place!!

missyb said...

City Meat Market in Giddings does not have a drive thru, nor does it serve chopped pork sandwiches. This is not the place that was visited. I give City Meat Market Giddings an A+!

Kurt said...

City Meat Market is one of my favorite places. If you make it there, you HAVE to try the pork. Perfection. Very peppery and smoky crust and tender meat with the sticky pork fat--this is what they do better than anyone else.

Anonymous said...

I stopped by City Meat Market in Giddings at 1:15 PM on Thursday, Oct 11th. I was informed by the kitchen that they were out of everything except a little sausage and some pork butt. We decided to eat elsewhere after taking in the dark, dirty and decrepit surroundings. This place was so filthy, I wouldn't have wanted to sit down there.

bubba said...

I went there today. This was the most DISGUSTING BBQ I have ever had. I ordered brisket, and the lady pulled it out of a PAN FULL OF WATER that was serving as a warming tray next to the pit. UGH!! First, who the hell would ever put good BBQ brisket in water to keep it warm? Then, she didn't know how to slice it, as she sliced it with the grain, instead of against it. If you do not know enough to slice brisket against the grain, you do not know what you are doing and have no business serving BBQ. I took one bite, spit it out, and left. I will never go back to that shithole again, and I highly recommend you avoid it too. Drive the 20 miles south and go to Prause meat market for a much better meal!!


Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.