Wednesday, October 13, 2010


ELGIN: Meyer’s Elgin Smokehouse
188 Hwy 290
Elgin, Texas 78621
Open M-Thur 10-8, F-Sat 10-9, Sun 10-7

Update: Maybe you're dehydrated and need to boost your sodium intake by a hefty amount. Meyer's is the place to begin, especially if you're used to eating in your car. The convenience of a drive-thru is just too hard to pass up when on a day-long BBQ tour. I ate mine without leaving the driver's seat.

A sign at the drive-thru

The flavor of the ribs were little more than the excessively salty rub and the heavy dose of cracked black pepper. No smoke was evident on these bones which needed more cooking time to get more tender. Brisket was plenty tender, but also had little smokiness. What these slices had was a well developed crust that held so much salt it tasted like it may have been cured meat. The rub mixture had the flavor of jerky, but the brisket was rich and beefy.

After the appetizers, I sunk my teeth into what Meyer's is really known for. The peppery links of garlic sausage were juicy enough to stain a shirt and pants all at once, but that snap is unforgettable, and the flavor was intense. Yes, intensely salty, but it had more dimensions with the garlic, the pepper and all that delicious pork. Not quite as smoky as I'd prefer, but this was a couple of great links. That's what I'll be ordering more of the next trip.

Rating **

2006: Meyer's is the Elgin sausage rival to Southside Market, and they take the title. The garlic sausage here is the signature, and it was bursting with flavor. The casing had a good snap, but the texture was slightly mushy from a fine grind. The links were a bit spicy with a good black pepper flavor. The brisket was not as good. It had a decent crust, but the flavor, texture and moisture were all average. Intense smoke flavor was also lacking. Stick to the sausage here, and be sure to douse it with their delicious spicy sauce.

Meyer's Elgin Smokehouse on Urbanspoon

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Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.