Friday, August 12, 2011

Hickory House Bar-B-Cue

DALLAS: Hickory House Barbecue
600 South Riverfront
Dallas, TX 75207

Open M-Sat 6am-10pm

Update: I didn't really give this joint much credit in a brief review a few years ago, and so much about this place called for me to return. The location beneath a bridge along Riverfront Boulevard along with a few great old neon signs and a bombed out parking lot make it look like a real contender. It's also stood the test of time, probably due to its cheap prices like a four meat plate (the only combo plate available) for under $10 which features ribs, brisket, ham and sausage. No choices for the sides of potato salad and cole slaw, but who's complaining for that price?

Alas, great value does not great barbecue make. Ribs looked promising, but were tough, dry and lacked smokiness. The pork flavors had not aged well. Both the sausage and ham were mass produced commercial grade meat which had curiously been presliced then "smoked" on the flat top. The grilling step added some much needed flavor, but needless to say it wasn't smoky. Brisket was nothing more than overcooked pot roast whose shortfalls were covered in a pint of warm sauce. For all my wanting, there just isn't much of a reason to stop if you're looking for good barbecue.

Rating *

2008: The ribs here are big and meaty, but the flavor is just passable. Even that could not save this place after I tasted their shoe-leather brisket that had zero flavor. It couldn't even pass for decent roast beef. Oh yeah, and they serve breakfast items.

Hickory House Barbecue on Urbanspoon


whargoul said...

That's a shame, I've often wondered about that place but after seeing the same bums laying on the tables in the afternoon that were there that same morning one day kind of turned me off of going in.

Anonymous said...

i always get the gyro wrap and dip it in a side of sauce.


Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.