Gerardo's Drive-In

HOUSTON: Gerardo's
609 Patton St
Houston, TX 77009
713-699-0820
Open Daily 5:30-6 (Barbacoa F, Sat & Sun only)

If you're reading this I presume you're awake, which means that Gerardo's is probably open. If it's a Friday, Saturday or Sunday and you're anywhere near Houston, then you need to make a trip for some hearty barbacoa. Barbacoa has many meanings. A strict translation is barbecue, but depending on your heritage, it could mean any cut of smoked goat, mutton, or more specifically cow heads. Most times in Texas when you find barbacoa on the menu it will mean cabeza de vaca or cow head (unless you're at Chipotle), and it will rarely be smoked. In fact, other than Vera's in Brownsville, there may not be any commercial barbacoa that is smoked. At Gerardo's in Houston they wrap the heads in foil and steam them like owner Jose Luis Lopez learned to in Michoacan. The seasoning is mainly salt, pepper and oregano, and the results are incredible.



The meat could be eaten by the forkful. The silky salt-soaked fat mixed in with the chunks of meat make for a rich flavor. Add some of their famous salsa verde on a fresh grilled tortilla, and you'll have one of the finest breakfasts that can be had.


Photo by Nicholas McWhirter

Strictly speaking, this probably isn't barbecue, but the rich tradition of barbacoa in the state is very much overshadowed by other traditional barbecue styles. I'll be interested about the effect the smoke used at Vera's will have on the meat when I visit there in the coming month. There isn't a hint of smokiness here (why would there be?) but the results are worth coming back for.


Photo by Nicholas McWhirter

In addition to cabeza of the cow, they also feature chicharrones, pork carnitas and mutton barbacoa. The mutton lacked the gaminess I had braced myself for, and was just as good as the beef. It was more tangy, and a bit dryer, but not too dry. The meat also had a nice reddish hue different from the dark brown flesh of the beef. I don't think I'll be able to choose between the two on my next visit, so I'll just have to get both.

Rating ****

Gatlin's BBQ

HOUSTON: Gatlin's BBQ
1221 1/2 W. 19th St.
Houston, TX 77008
281-804-4555
Open Tues-Sat 11-7
gatlinsbbq.com

It was the end of a long day. My friends Nick and Clark had stayed with me bite for bite through six other barbecue joints and we were on our way to Houston to eat at this mightily heralded joint in northwest Houston that's just over a year old. Greg Gatlin had his heyday on the gridiron as a defensive back for the Rice Owls, but barbecue is his game now. He was manning the counter inside the small dining room as I tried to order a small plate for my already satiated friends and I. I met some Houston friends there who had other ideas and we soon made our way to the covered picnic tables with a large foil tray brimming with all flavors of smoked meat.



I started with the grayish hot links. These are house made without red dyes or nitrates, so the they may not look like your idea of hot links, but they pack some heat. The casings are a bit chewy, but the meat and spices beneath are smoky and delicious. The regular sausage (made elsewhere) has a great snap and good black pepper flavor, but those hot links have superior flavor. Rosy pulled pork is flecked with black bits of highly seasoned crust. The texture is a good balance between toothsome and silky from the remaining fat.

All of the meats on the menu that I tried are excellent versions, but it's the brisket that has me considering a road trip from Dallas to Houston fortnightly. The true connoisseur will always go for the fatty brisket, and it was well represented here. Thick slices were just on the edge of disintegration. They were barely held together with strands of well cooked fat that had good smoke and great flavor from the subtle seasoning, but it was the lean brisket form the flat cut that stole the show for me. When it is done properly, a lean cut of brisket with a 1/4" thick layer of fat remaining can be a thing of smoked wonder. I find that the fat locks in the smokiness greater than the meat, so a bit of each makes for a perfect bite of brisket. This fat was the epitome of what I like. It's nearly clear and barely clinging to the meat. A pinch of the fingers goes clean through without a hint of resistance. The pencil thick slices of meat were a just hovering over the optimal tenderness as a few broke in half under their own weight, but it was far from mushy. A thick black crust enveloped the whole smoky slice and provided a slight crispness to the very edge. My brain overruled my bulging stomach as I continued to another slice.

Already well on our way to demolishing the meat pile, out came the large bowls of family style side items. I have a dim recollection of any save the dirty rice which was the best I've had anywhere. Almost as much meat as rice, this side could easily make a meal in itself. Prompted by my dining companions I mixed in a bit of sauce and took a great side to an even higher level. I'll take this Gulf Coast flavor with my Texas style BBQ any day.



Being late in the day, I wasn't surprised that the popular ribs were already gone. After a bit of begging from the table, a few of these beauties being held back (probably for the owner's dinner) were released by the generous kitchen. The ribs were sweet, smoky and magnificent with a sugary rub that didn't overwhelm the well formed crust. These perfectly tender ribs would have been a great way to cap off this excellent meal, but before I could ask, the peach cobbler arrived. Prior to this meal I could hardly imagine ingesting more than a few bites of anything, but the bottom of the peach cobbler bowl was clean before I left the table.

With the emergence of Virgie's and the hopeful comeback of Pierson's, Houston is quickly becoming a barbecue destination of its own. Let's hope 2012 brings more quality urban BBQ to our fine state.

Rating *****

Beaver's

HOUSTON: Beaver's
2310 Decatur Street
Houston, TX 77007
713-864-2328
Open Tues-W 11-10, Thur-F 11-11, Sat 12-11, Sun 11-10
beavershouston.com/

Beaver's is the darling of many a food blogger in Houston, the praise just usually isn't for the BBQ. I found it a great choice for a watering hole with a few of these adoring bloggers, and they realized that my presence would require that we order some of the smoked meat offerings. So, along with our crudo (excellent), lamb ahogada (prefectly messy) and numerous drinks, we ordered a 'smoker sampler' with brisket, pork ribs and house made sausage.



From all of the food we sampled at Beaver's, the ribs were an aberration. Although well seasoned, they were dry beyond belief, and chewy to boot. With little smoke flavor, they failed to get eaten bewteen the group. Brisket (dinner only) was a huge improvement. A thick slab of smoky, moist beef was layed out with a nice line of fat still attached. The meat was cut very thick, but it was still plenty tender. The rub created a burst of flavor, and the smoke penetrated the meat. After that experience, a bite of the vinegar-laced pulled pork was bracing. The meat had all the looks of great smoked pork, but the heavy dose of this intensely flavored sauce hid any of the flavor that it may have had coming off the pit. To prove that they do know pork, Beaver's offers a jalapeno pork sausage with a hefty dose of garlic. With a great mix of bold seasoning and hefty dose of smoke all wrapped in a snappy casing, this was some of the best sausage I've eaten.

While I must recommend trying the wide array of quality food on this menu, for the BBQ I'd suggest skipping the pork and the ribs. The brisket and sausage were just that much better, and are alone worth the trip to Beaver's.

Rating ***

Phil's Texas Barbecue

HOUSTON: Phil's Texas Barbecue
110 South Heights Blvd
Houston, TX 77007
713-862-8600
Open Sun-W 11-10, Thur-Sat 11-1am
http://www.philstxbbq.com/

Update: This joint is CLOSED.

2010: Phil's a new place in Houston that offers a BBQ in either a sit-down portion of the restaurant, or in the expansive bar. We stayed at the bar which proved to be a great place to watch a game with plenty of options to quench your thirst. Based on the how dry the brisket was, you're gonna need a drink.



The meat had little flavor, and no smokiness. All of the fat had been trimmed, and the meat was bone dry. Ribs were a bit better, but suffered from just the opposite problem. The meat was overly moist and bordered on mushy. The sauce slathered on top didn't help the texture. The flavor from the rib lacked smoke, but they were well seasoned. Beans and cheese grits on the side were superb.



Not pictured is the best item sampled. Bananas foster bread pudding was outstanding. A nice blend of spices and sweetness from the caramelized bananas. If they deliver barbecue as good as their sides and desserts, then they may start living up to their tagline "It's why Texans brag."

Rating **

Thelma's Bar-B-Q

HOUSTON: Thelma's Bar-B-Q
3755 Southmore Boulevard
Houston, TX 77004
713-228-2262
Open M-F 11-7, Sat 11:30-7

Update: Thelma's lost their lease and they are now CLOSED. They hope to find a new location, and I hope they do too.

2010: If you don't like this sauce, you're not gonna be a fan of Thelma's. This is true East Texas style BBQ which is judged by a chopped beef sandwich covered in sweet and tangy barbecue sauce. Before you can get your hands on it, you have to deal with Thelma and her surly attitude.



Or so I had been told. Thelma has rules. Those rules are posted ad nauseum on nearly every surface of the joint, and I like these rules, especially the one about orders not being taken from people on their cell phones. My guess is that the folks who warn about the rude owner are also those determined to break the rules. I didn't, and service was courteous in return.



I even asked for no sauce on my two meat platter, and was obliged without comment. At the table, my first bite was from the pile of dirty rice. So were the next few bites. This stuff had intense flavor and great meatiness. It was one of the best sides I've had at a BBQ joint. As for the meat, the ribs were huge and meaty with a great crust and a slightly sweet glaze. The moist meat was well cooked and came off the bone easily, but it could have used more smoke. Brisket was similar. The meat was moist, tender and well seasoned, but needed more smoke. No matter the flavor, they're not shy about piling it on. A few dips into that sweet, vinegary sauce did it well.



This brisket is more well suited to that huge chopped beef sandwich. The meat was chunked rather than chopped, with plenty of good crust all around. The bottom of the bun was hidden under a sea of meat and sauce that nearly filled the styrofoam container. That sauce had a kick of spice along with the super sweetness, and I really enjoyed the flavors all mixed together. Don't expect to eat this one without a fork.

Rating ***

Bobbie Que's

HOUSTON: Bobbie Que's
3602 Scott St
Houston, TX 77004
713-842-7626
Open M-Sat 11-9, Sun 11-9 (1st Sunday of the month only)
bobbieques.com/

Update: This joint is CLOSED.

2010: Thelma's in Houston is an institution, so I headed straight there as soon as I got into town to catch their 11:00 opening. The sign on the window changed my plans as I quickly learned I was misinformed, and I had a 1/2 hour to kill before their 11:30 opening. I remembered a sign just up Scott St. advertising BBQ, so I headed back and found Bobbie Que's. I'd heard about this joint in a Robb Walsh review a few months back, so I didn't have high hopes, but I went in with an open mind and left with a hefty to-go bag.



Back in Thelma's parking lot, I got a punch in the nose as I opened the box. The odor of the vinegar sauce was ridiculously strong. There are posters all around the interior of the restaurant advertising these 'finishing sauces', and bottles are offered at the counter. Many times a tasty sauce is used to cover up less-than-stellar smoked meat, but I didn't see the appeal in this version. Unfortunately, the meat needed it. Brisket was thinly sliced, but still managed to be tough and stringy. There was no smokiness, or really any other flavors. The huge spare ribs were marginally better. They had some flavor of their own, but the sauce covered most of it up. The meat was moist, but undercooked and chewy, and it lacked smokiness of any kind. I guess the lesson is to be wary of a joint that has posters of nothing but their sauce on the wall.

Rating *

Pizzitola's Bar-B-Cue

HOUSTON: Pizzitola’s Bar-B-Cue
1703 Shepherd Drive
Houston, TX 77007
713-227-2283
Open M-Sat 11-8
pizzitolas.com/

Seventy years after they opened, the only open pit resides right here at Pizzitola's, and due to current code requirements in Houston, there won't be another one anytime soon. The owners are more than happy to show it off, but beware, you'll be in some tight quarters. You see the kitchen is grossly undersized for this operation, but they can't expand because that would take a permit, and then they'd need to give up that pit. That pit is what gives the meat here that distinctive flavor along with the hickory wood. Although they use direct heat, there's still plenty of smoky flavor because they smoke with wood rather than using just coals like their open pit brethren at Cooper's and Hard 8.



I got a nice tour of the kitchen, with pitmaster Jose looking on annoyed as we crowded him and his brisket. After the intoxicating aromas emanating from the pit, I couldn't wait to get a few bites of my smoked meat snack. Back in the car, my wife was happy that I brought some of their authentic banana pudding for her to snack on. The chunks of real bananas, whipped cream and Nilla wafers made for an excellent accompaniment to the meat.



The meat wasn't too shabby either. Pork ribs had a generous salt and black pepper rub. The finely ground pepper made it's way into every smoky bite. The meat came easily from the bone, but it was a bit dry. The brisket could have been more moist as well (maybe from the direct heat). Despite that minor flaw, this was solid eating brisket. A generous smokering laid beneath a crispy black crust which was brittle to the tooth. A hefty bit of smoke flavor found its way deep into the meat which was tender with a nice line of fat still clinging to each delicious, peppery slice. The slight dryness was the only flaw, and it may have been due to my visit being in the late afternoon. Another trip at the lunch rush may push this joint to another star, and I'll be sure to try their special recipe sausage on the next trip.

Rating ****

Goode Co. Texas BBQ

HOUSTON: Goode Co. Texas BBQ
5109 Kirby Drive
Houston, TX 77098
713-522-2530
Open Daily 11-10
www.goodecompany.com

Goode Company is BBQ for the people. The masses do not obsess about smokerings and brisket snot, rather they enjoy a bevy of tasty side items, cold beer, and good desserts to go along with their 'cue. Did you say jalapeno cheese bread? Pile it on too. How about a gluten-free menu? Why not. While I consider many of these items superfluous to a great plate of smoked meat, I too see the value in one of the best slices of pecan pie I've sank my teeth into, especially after a long day of barbecuing around Houston. The sweetness was a welcome respite after so much meat, but I had saved a little pocket of my stomach for some more protein.



Duck on a BBQ menu? Yes, in addition to the traditional smoked meats, Goode Co. also offers smoked duck, Czech sausage, and spicy sliced pork. These are items not often found on a BBQ menu in Texas, so I had to add them to my order of brisket and pork ribs. I was thankful for the option to order a plate of just meats, and to not have to take the obligatory bite of potato salad and beans that I had no room for.

I began with the duck. Much of the smoke was trapped in the plasticy skin, so the meat had little smoke. While the flavor was great, and oddly more like pork than duck, the meat was a bit dry. I was hoping for more punch from the spicy pork, and while it was moist and tender, it lacked spice altogether, and had little flavor. Brisket also lacked flavor and smoke. I thought that to be nearly impossible with the kitchen employing the use mesquite smoke, but it may have all disappeared in the fat that completely eliminated from each slice. Not even a dunk in the sauce helped as it tasted more like a roasted tomato sauce than BBQ sauce. Beginning to get discouraged by this member of the elite Texas Monthly Top 50, I moved on to the gem of the plate. Czech sausage was deeply smoky and boldly seasoned. This very coarsely ground sausage had visible chunks of fat interlaced with well spiced meat, all encased in a beautifully snappy casing. Ribs were also good. They tasted like they'd been sitting for a while, but the heavy black pepper rub helped bring them to life. They had a bit more smoke than the rest of the meats, and along with the sausage helped to salvage this otherwise lackluster offering. Now where's the rest of that pie?

Rating ***

Hickory Pit Bar-B-Que

BELLAIRE: Hickory Pit Bar-B-Que
6601 South Rice Avenue
Bellaire, TX 77401-4012
713-666-0661
Open M-Sat 10:30-8:30, Sun 11-4

Other than the good version of a jalapeno hot link, there's not much positive to say about this joint. The ribs were chewy and dry with no smokiness and little overall flavor.



Brisket was dog food grade with loads of chewy unrendered fat. There was no discernible smoke flavor and little flavor of any kind. The jalapeno sausage was actually quite good, but it seems as if they must have lucked into a good supplier. They alone aren't worth returning for.

Rating *

Luling City Market

HOUSTON: Luling City Market
4726 Richmond Ave
Houston, TX 77027
713-871-1903
Open M-Sat 11-9, Sun 12-7
www.lulingcitymarket.com

Luling City Market has been described as an identity bandit. They stole an employee and a sauce recipe from the original City Market in Luling, but the meat isn't quite up to that level. Orders arrive on butcher paper accompanied by that signature clay colored sauce, and there's no denying that they've nailed that recipe. Unfortunately, the most pronounced flavor note from the meat was salt.



The crust on the brisket was dense and sticky. There wasn't so much a crust as it was a somewhat dried layer that concentrated the rub into an intensely salty burst in every bite. I enjoy salt, but this was just too much covering what would otherwise be some pretty good brisket. Very little smoke was evident in the slices, and most of the fat had been trimmed away from the still moist beef. Ribs were about the same. They had a very salty rub, and had been stored a while. The meat was still moist with a decent level of tenderness, but this meat was also missing that smokiness. Overall, the meat here was decent, but it's nowhere near the level of the original. Maybe with another name, expectations wouldn't be elevated.

Rating ***

Virgie's Bar-B-Que

HOUSTON: Virgie’s Bar-B-Que
5535 Gessner Dr.
Houston, TX 77041
713-466-6525
Open W-F 11-6:30, Sat 11-5:30
www.virgiesbbq.com/

Update: This joint had a fire on 03/11/11, but they have reopened and are back in business.

2010: BBQ Snob: "Who is your hot link supplier?"
Virgie: "That's my secret. Are you folks food critics or something?"
BBQ Snob: "That's our secret."

This is how my experience at Virgie's began with the amiable proprietor and pit master, Adrian Handsborough. Pierson's down the road has a big fan in Robb Walsh, while Virgie's counts the Houston Chronicle's Alison Cook as a fan along with being named one of Texas's top 50 BBQ joints by Texas Monthly. These are some high accolades for being open a mere five years, but Chris Reid, Fulmer and I were about to find out if they were deserved.




Virgie's offers a meaty sampler plate, so we went without sides, and headed straight for the protein. Those mysterious hot links were dense and flavorful. A mild red pepper heat was complemented by cracked black pepper and plenty of post oak smoke. They were moist without being fatty and there was a great snap to the casing. St. Louis ribs were a bit on the small side and could have been a bit more meaty, but they remained moist and tender with a nice chew. Well seasoned, they had a bold smokiness and excellent overall flavor. Portions of the point and flat were held together tenuously by a thin line of scrumptious fat in each of the thick slices of brisket. A beautiful rosy smokering was enveloped by a deep black crust, and the flavor of that oak smoke made it deep into every bite. A large portion of fat remained on many of the slices, but was so well smoked that it was devoured along with the meat. At the end of the meal, this would be the cleanest box on the trip.

While all of the offerings were stellar, my favorite part was the brisket, and it's quality was further cemented after the BBQ Smackdown where I chose Virgie's as my favorite sample. My favorite bit from the joint's website may be a misprint. Adrian describes the history of the joint and his 'barbecure'. Joints like this definitely help me recharge after many medicore meals in a row, and I'll be lobbying Webster to add this term to describe how sometimes good BBQ is all you need to cure what ails you.

Rating *****

Pierson & Company Bar-B-Q

HOUSTON: Pierson & Company Bar-B-Q
5110 West T. C. Jester
Houston, TX 77091
713-683-6997
Open Tues-Sat 11-7

Update: This joint is temporarily CLOSED. Pitmaster and owner Clarence Pierson had surgery on his knees a while back and is recovering for a hopeful comeback.

2010: After trying so many average DFW 'cue joints, I had little hope for finding truly great BBQ in another Texas metropolitan area. My guide for the day assured me that we'd be hitting the best that Houston had to offer, so today would be Houston's test. The second stop of the morning brought us to a joint that had been garnering some local clout along with accolades from the likes of Robb Walsh since its opening about two years ago. Let's just say expectations were high.



In addition to the standard brisket and ribs, we opted for sliced pork and a link of boudin. The boudin was dense but moist with great flavor from green onions and a great smoky flavor. The spare ribs were large and meaty, possibly from giant four pounds racks. The meat was perfectly moist with juiciness streaking through it due to the perfectly rendered fat. A very heavy spice rub kept any black crust from forming, but the meat was incredibly smoky throughout from a good dose of mesquite smoke. Sliced pork wasn't so much sliced as chunked. The rub was the same as that used on the ribs, but it wasn't quite as heavy. No residual fat was evident because of the long smoking time, and the tender, moist meat just fell apart into nice bite sized morsels.

In the opinion of most, including me, the true test of any joint's skill is their brisket. This brisket was slow smoked in an upright pit by Houston's David Klose. The meat had a deep smokiness into the core of each slice. A large line of fat was left on the edge of each slice, and this fat was so silky tender that their was little question that it would all be eaten along with the meat. This brisket was nicely seasoned and lusciously moist and tender, and truly some of the best I've eaten in the state. If this keeps up on this tour of Houston, then there's no question that it's got Dallas beat.

Rating *****

Lyndon's Pit Bar-B-Q

HOUSTON: Lyndon's Pit Bar-B-Q
5320 Hollister Street
Houston, TX 77040
713-690-2112
Open Daily 10-9
www.lyndonspitbarbq.com

From the great personable service we received while dining, it was obvious that the owners of Lyndon's are really trying hard at what they do. We were asked sincerely if we enjoyed everything, and felt obliged to offer the generic answer that everything was fine. To be more honest, it was all pretty average barbeque.



As we ordered, the knife man laid a dry flat of brisket on the cutting board and began to slice into the fat free meat. After an earnest request for some fatty brisket, the knife man twirled around to grab a slab of the good stuff out of his secret vault. We were momentarily saved from bland meat. Waiting to pay at the register, I could already tell the pulled pork was bone dry. Back at the table the meat proved to be both dry and bland. A quick dip in their pork specific sauce remedied the issue. I was happy to see that a joint would offer a different sauce based on the meat it was to be paired with, and even happier that the pairing worked. I just wished that the meat could have shined on its own.

The brisket was a step up from the pork. The meat was smokey, flavorful and very moist. The fat had been well rendered, but the meat was slightly caramelized from a long storage time creating a sticky texture in the mouth. Ribs were also moist. The big meaty spare ribs were well cooked and far from dry. They needed more seasoning and more smoke, but they were definitely a step in the right direction. While I've seen a few other reviews, and people seem to either love or despise this place. If you stick with the ribs and request the fatty brisket, you can get a pretty decent meal of 'cue here.

Rating **

Barbecue Inn

HOUSTON: Barbecue Inn
116 West Crosstimbers Street
Houston, TX 77018
713-695-8112
Open Tues-Sat 10:30-9:30

We timed it just right to arrive in Houston just as the Barbecue Inn was opening. Despite its name, this joint is much more well known for their home cooking like chicken fried steak, fried shrimp, and fried chicken. But I was here for the BBQ.

This isn't the most beautiful part of town, but certainly doesn't feel dangerous in any way. As I left my car I was approached by a pan handler. I brushed him off and got a look of disdain reserved for folks like me who are exiting their Audis holding their fancy camera. I continued to the entrance and was quickly greeted by a hostess. This is a full service joint. While perusing the menu, the Houston Foodie (Chris Reid) arrived. He would be my intrepid guide for the day. His charge? To show me the best BBQ that Houston had to offer without wincing a bit from the overindulgence that was about to commence.

Chris is a pro in gluttony, so he understood that we needed to share plates even though we were both starving. Ribs are available as an appetizer, and a plate of brisket was very reasonable.



Brisket arrived covered in a thin tomatoey sauce with little depth of flavor. The fat was fully trimmed, and the slices were a bit dry, but the flavor of the unadulterated portions of beef was decent. Outside of a thick black crust, there was little smokiness.



A plate of St. Louis style ribs were much better. Seasoning heavy in black pepper helped create a nice crust on the meat. These bones were moist and tender, and the fat within the rib was nicely rendered. While the ribs also had little smoke, their flavor was very good. A plate of fried chicken ordered by my wife showed why they were so well known for their home cooking. The meat was moist, and the breading perfectly crisp. I'd have a hard time not ordering on my next trip.

Rating ***