The Pitstop BBQ

MEMPHIS: The Pitstop BBQ
317 N Boykin Dr
Memphis, TX 79245
806-259-1234
Open Tues-Sat 7-8

Elvis was blasting on the radio as I passed the Memphis city limits sign, and I was in search of some barbecue. I knew I wouldn't be getting any barbecue spaghetti because this wasn't Tennessee, it was Memphis, Texas. A town small enough that they deliver your drink order to your table before you sit down - without asking. Combo plates with ribs were not an option, so I grabbed a brisket sandwich and the smallest order of ribs I could get which was a half rack.



Brisket smoked with pecan and mesquite tasted like it had been washed of all flavor. It had been stored for hours, possibly sitting in liquid. The texture was mushy, beyond that of pot roast, and there just wasn't much of any flavor left.



Ribs were highly touted by the server, but suffered the same texture issues as the brisket. The crust was chewy while the interior of the meat was mushy and beyond overcooked. The bones served no purpose here as the meat came away in large chunks at the slightest tug, and the burnt flavor didn't make up for it. I guess we should leave it to the Tennesseans to make Memphis barbecue.

Rating *

Henk's Bar-B-Que

AMARILLO: Henk's Bar-B-Que
1508 S Grand St
Amarillo, TX 79104
806-372-9011
Open M-Sat 7:30-8
www.henksbarbq.com

My wife was looking for a Braum's, and I'm always looking for some barbecue. It just so happened that this exit on the east side of Amarillo had both. I stepped into the small dining room that lacked air conditioning, and made my way up to the counter. I noticed 'hotz' on the menu, so I had to add them to my normal order of brisket and ribs. I watched as the cutter grabbed a perfect cube of brisket and hack off a few slices. It was so oddly trimmed that it didn't look like it came from a cow.



Upon tasting, the brisket, my opinion of it didn't improve. It was hard, dry and lacked smoke. The Panhandle just doesn't seem to do brisket well. Ribs were better. They had a good heavy rub on them with plenty of black pepper. The smoke level was pleasing and the meat was tender. The hotz were basically a jalapeno cheese sausage the size of a hot dog. The texture was much better than a hot dog with a nice snap to the casing. The flavor was smoky with some real heat from the jalapenos. If I lived near there I could see downing a few of these as a snack. I just wouldn't bother with the brisket again.

Rating **

Wiley's Old Fashioned Bar-B-Q & Burgers

LUBBOCK: Wiley's Old Fashioned Bar-B-Q & Burgers
1805 Parkway Dr
Lubbock, TX 79403
806-765-7818
Open

My wife does not like barbecue. She'll stomach a turkey or sausage sandwich now and then, but when she tells me that she's hungry she doesn't want to hear that there's a BBQ joint nearby. Luckily for the both of us, this stop was at Wiley's Old Fashioned Bar-B-Q & Burgers. The building was in a mostly abandoned shopping strip called Parkway Center on the east side of town. My family stayed in the car in the shade of the old sign while I went inside. The interior was sparse, and orders are taken through a hole in wall between the kitchen and the dining room that lacked A.C. I grabbed a combo plate for me and my daughter to share and a burger & fries for my wife.



A video interview with the owner and pitmaster


Outside a plethora of smokers were fired up. You could smell the mesquite smoke all the way across the parking lot, and there was little question that these meats are cooked with 100% wood smoke.



Sausage was standard commercial grade but had a good blast of smoke to make it palatable. Brisket was better than it looks. It was a bit dry, but the meat had decent smoke and good seasoning. The ribs were the best item with plenty of good smokiness and a nice rub. The meat was tender without being overcooked, and I was quickly wishing that more than one was included in the combo.



Not to be missed is the burger. My wife was pleasantly surprised at the buttery toasted bun, the thin but juicy burger and the thick slice of cheese. This was a burger we'd be glad to eat anywhere, not just something to settle for at a BBQ joint.

Rating ***

Crazy Larry's Bar-B-Que

AMARILLO: Crazy Larry's Bar-B-Que
4315 Teckla Boulevard
Amarillo, TX 79109
806-359-3176
Open M-Sat 10:30-9

This joint used to win Amarillo "Best of" awards back when it was called Doug Hank's. Most online listings of the address still show it as Doug Hank's so I was quite surprised to pull up and find Crazy Larry's Bar-B-Que. I don't usually judge a joint on it's name, but this one just didn't scream great barbecue to me. We hit the drive-thru undaunted and ordered a combo plate and a sausage sandwich.



The pulled pork is supposed to be good, but they decided to sub it out for sausage. They also couldn't fathom the idea that anyone would want no sauce on their barbecue. When I ordered it on the side, they gave me a large side of sauce AND poured it all over the meat. They say that sauce is generally used to cover up mistakes, and there were plenty to cover.



Sausage was in large disks like a beefy summer sausage, but with a mushy texture. Salt was the predominant flavor. The sliced beef did not have a predominant flavor as it was lacking much flavor at all. The texture was of overdone pot roast and there was no smoke evident. Ribs had a hint of smoke, but the dry meat beneath a crispy crust needed that sauce, but was the only meat not to receive it. I probably won't make another stop to see what these meats taste like naked, but it would be nice if they'd serve them that way when asked.

Rating *

Wesley's Bean Pot

AMARILLO: Wesley's Bean Pot & BBQ
6406 River Rd
Amarillo, TX 79108
806-381-2893
Open Tues 11-7, W 11-2, Thur-F 11-7, Sat 11-3

Other online reviews warned that you had to get to this joint early to get the ribs because they sold out so fast. I was looking forward to getting some meat in Amarillo that had a real following, so I arrived just after opening time on a Saturday. The joint sits in a lonely strip center north of town. The interior is white painted concrete block with artwork supplied by the patrons. A very reasonably priced menu hung above the cash register, so I went for the $8 three meat combo. After my order was placed, a well oiled machine of a team behind the counter slapped together meat, sides and bread like I'd never seen. Thirty seconds later I had a complete order ready to travel, ribs included.



Jalapeno cornbread was a nice touch instead of cheap white bread, but it was dry and flavorless. Those famous ribs were thick and meaty baby backs that were way overcooked. The meat was moist and the black on the crust was a good sign, but it actually tasted like a burnt layer of sweet sauce. Hot links were nothing more than spicy hotdogs with no smoke. Falling apart roast beef had been cut thick to hold itself together, but this brisket didn't taste like it had come near a smoker. I hoped that maybe the beans would offer some interest given the name, but they were just warm pintos straight form the can. The only item that didn't disappoint was the lightly dressed and crunchy cole slaw, but that's not enough to bring me back.

Rating *

Hodie's Bar-B-Q

DALHART: Hodie's Bar-B-Q
701 S Highway 87
Dalhart, TX 79022
806-244-6773
Open

A week earlier I sat in this parking lot looking at the CLOSED sign wondering when I'd get back to this far corner of Texas. Then it dawned on me that my family's path to Colorado would swing right through here again soon. I was leading the two-car caravan as we approached town the following week. It was evening, and the family was hungry. We hadn't discussed dinner plans, but the blinking lights of Hodie's sign made the decision for us.



We took our spot at the large round table just inside the door. Like many small town BBQ joints, the menu here is a little wider than just smoked meats to serve a variety of palates. I went straight for the three meat combo plate which came with those sides so familiar to from other Panhandle BBQ visits. Slaw, beans, potato salad and onion rings were all there, and were all very good. All that was missing was the apricot puree.



Huge links of fatty and mushy commercial sausage had some smokiness, but just wasn't good. Gray slices of brisket were dry, lacked smoke and flavor, and needed the sauce. Ribs were by far the best item. While the long slender spare ribs were a bit overcooked, they had great flavor from the rub. There was some decent smoke flavor, and the meat was very tender. Ribs and rings again were proven to be the preferred meal of this corner of Texas.

Rating **

Paula's Bar-B-Q

DUMAS: Paula's Bar-B-Q
324 South Dumas Avenue
Dumas, TX 79029
806-935-7425
Open

Update: The owners sold the place just a few weeks after my visit. It is now a Mexican restaurant that also serves BBQ, but no ham. Paula's is now CLOSED.

2011: Real cowboys occupied the tables in this bright dining room, and looked on with curiosity at the guy snapping away with his fancy camera. The owners didn't seem to mind as they filled our order. After ordering a combo plate the man working the regsiter inquired about our plans and I told him that we were headed to Dalhart for the XIT Rodeo and barbecue. In a parental tone he reminded me that we'd have to wait until Saturday for the event. In a respectful tone, I reminded him that it was Saturday.



Crisp and fresh cole slaw, crisp fried okra and crunchy onion rings were all superb. Ham is not something I generally order. It was moist and very salty with little smoke. Brisket was very average. The gray meat was overly trimmed, a bit dry and needed smoke. Ribs had a bit more smoke, but tasted like they'd been stored for a while. The meat was tender and moist, and the flavor was helped with a dip into the sauce. Given the quality of the sides, I was hoping for more with the meat. Maybe it would have better at the lunch rush instead of mid afternoon, but it just wasn't great meat on this visit.

Rating **

Dyer's Bar-B-Que (Amarillo)

AMARILLO: Dyer's Bar-B-Que
1619 S Kentucky St
Amarillo, TX 79102
806-358-7104
Open M-Sat 11-10, Sun 11-9

Plaques and awards cover the wall in the entry lobby. Most awards are local and nearly all of them are for ribs. I was here to see if their brisket was any better than the Pampa location. I placed my to-go order at the front counter where a teen punk couldn't find the time to take the Skoal out of is lip before taking my order.



Back in the car, we had a glorious reunion with the onion rings we had come to love on this trip. The slaw and potato salad were great as well, but I do not yearn for them like the onion rings. Texas toast was fresh and that same apricot puree was there for dipping. Brisket was bit better than the other location. The smokiness was there, and the slice was good and moist, but it could have been more tender. Pork tenderloin was an exact replica of the bone dry slices we had in Pampa. As those plaques on the wall were an apt preview for the ribs. The flavor from the mesquite smoke was deep, and the sweet rub and heavyish glaze were a nice counterpoint to the smoke and heavy black pepper. While very similar in style, this location was just a cut above the one in Pampa.

Rating ***

Big Texan

AMARILLO: Big Texan
7701 W Interstate 40
Amarillo, TX 79121
806-372-6000
Open Daily 7-10:30 (BBQ after 10:30)
http://www.bigtexan.com/

No, I did not get the 72 oz. steak or attempt the ridiculous eating challenge that The Big Texan is most well known for. I didn't even get a steak. A large table surrounded by high-backed chairs on raised platform sits just below the timer that would be counting down had some poor soul been attempting the famous challenge. The only challenge I had on this day was waiting until 10:00 am when the lunch menu was finally available. I know this place isn't a BBQ joint, but brisket, ribs and sausage are featured on their menu, it was open on a Sunday, and I happened to be staying at the adjoining motel the evening before. I was even berated on Twitter because this place is only for tourist. I was 500 miles from home, so I guess I fit the tourist definition.



What I quickly realized when the combo plate arrived was that many tourists assume this is real Texas barbecue. Unfortunately, none of these meats had even been licked by smoke. The ribs were tender with plenty of sauce flavor, but they had surely been baked. The same for the brisket that wasn't even a good representation of roast beef. From the salty flavor and overly moist texture, it may have been presliced and stored in broth. Sausage was large and mushy with odd flavors of aromatic spices. Again, any smoke flavor was missing. Sides of fried okra and mashed potatoes were also forgettable, but were at least more indicative of Texas cuisine than the barbecue. For the sake of this state's barbecue reputation, I hope the tourists stick with the steaks here.

Rating *

Old Sutphens BBQ

BORGER: Old Sutphens BBQ
303 North Cedar
Borger, TX 79007
806-273-6442
Open Tues-Thur 11-9, F-Sat 11-9:30, Sun 11-2
bbq.micronpcweb.com

Not thirty minutes earlier the server at Dyer's in Pampa said she believed Dyer's was the only place around serving apricot puree with their barbecue. Within minutes of being seated at Sutphen's a plate of nearly identical ribs, cole slaw, potato salad, onion rings and, you guessed it, apricot puree was plopped down on our table. The three meat combos here are so large that they need three plates and a bowl just to contain all the food, and those plates made quite the racket in the dead quiet dining room. It was visibly uncomfortable for nearly every table to talk except the two kids jawing at each other about who would have more fun at Six Flags in their upcoming vacation.



Sutphen's began up the road in Phillips in 1950 before moving to this location in downtown Borger in 1963. It was run by Joey Sutphen into the late nineties where the joint received a place in Texas Monthly's Top 50 BBQ joints issue in 1997. The business was purchased in 2000 by the current owners, but they say they're sticking with tradition when it comes to the recipes. One of those recipes they should reconsider is the god-awful brisket. When it arrived chunked and sauced on the table I thought I'd get an unsauced version to go. When I unwrapped it at the car I realized this meat had been stewing in sauce and enjoying it naked was not an option. This brisket is little more than pot roast stewed in something like Woody's Cookin' Sauce, and it doesn't meet my definition of barbecue.



To my great relief, everything else on the plate was excellent. Ultra fresh and crisp slaw, well seasoned potato salad with chunks of dill pickle and perfectly crunchy golden onion rings came alongside some subtle pinto beans. Texas toast was grilled and buttery, and a dip into that apricot puree took it to another level. Chunks of pork had a hint of smoke and plenty of sweet rub and sauce. The meat was nicely tender and moist. The meaty St. Louis cut ribs were the best of the Panhandle trip. Good smoke wasn't overpowered by the sweet glaze, and the black pepper seasoning was the perfect counterpoint. The tenderness could have won some competitions, and there wasn't an uncleaned bone at the end of the meal. Now if only there were other joints around these parts that served this kind of food!

Rating ***

Dyer's Bar-B-Que (Pampa)

PAMPA: Dyer's Bar-B-Que
US Hwy 60 W (at Price)
Pampa, TX 79065
806-665-4401
Open M-Sat 11-9

It's rare that I wait seven hours into a road trip to grab some smoked meat, but that's a symptom of leaving Dallas several hours before sunrise, and of making the Texas Panhandle the day's destination. It was about noon when my friend Nick and I rolled into Pampa. It wasn't hard to spot the big red sign along the main drag through town which just screamed "We've been around here a while", and the interior decor reeks of 1967, their first year in business. Orders are taken at the table, and service was genuine. A three meat combo plate of brisket, ribs and pork tenderloin was on the table in minutes.



It was hard not to focus on the ramekin of orange goo on the plate. After consulting the staff we were told it was apricot preserves that were there for spreading on the Texas Toast. The toast was about an hour beyond its prime, so we just ate it straight. Thin and sweet with a hint of fruit, this would have been great on pancakes. A bland potato salad and a crispy lightly dressed slaw were no match for the fresh and crisp onion rings. A tempura like batter enveloped thick cuts onions that held up well to the hot oil. I wanted more.



The meats were similarly disparate in quality. While the pork tenderloin had decent smokiness, the cut was sawdust dry and needed some seasoning. Undercooked brisket was trimmed of fat too tightly resulting in dry meat with little flavor. It took a bit of effort to pull apart, and was less enjoyable than the pork. Large spare ribs saved the plate. The meat was tender and the fat was well rendered making for a nice moist rib. A peppery rub and sweet glaze added some good zip to the smoky ribs. We would come to learn that ribs and rings were a popular order in this part of the state for good reason.

Upon leaving we asked the hostess about the curiosity of apricot preserves. She said it was a tradition that was limited to Dyer's. This became more humorous after several stops in the day where we found identical menus and nearly identical preserves and onion rings across the Panhandle. It seems they have a style all their own that even they don't know about.

Rating **

Tom & Bingo's BBQ

Tom & Bingo’s BBQ

3006 34th Street

Lubbock, Texas

806-799-1514

Open M-F, 11-3:30, Sat 11-2:30

Guest Contributor: Straight from the Panhandle, the Midnight Smoker shares his beef from Tom & Bingo's BBQ.

Tom & Bingo’s, Lubbock’s sole representative in the Top 50 list presented in last June’s Texas Monthly, is one of the longest operating restaurants in the city. My dad, in his 60’s now, remembers walking there for lunch when he was a student at nearby JT Hutchinson Junior High back in the late 1950’s. They are only open for lunch at Tom & Bingo’s, from 11am until “whenever we sell out of brisket,” and they aren’t open at all on Sundays. The store is a real little joint, known for its tiny floor area, its school-desk seating, and its brisket sandwiches. I headed there on a recent weekday to have a couple.



Readers of this blog know the custom is for us reviewers to sample and write about servings of sliced brisket, pork ribs and sausage. But at Tom & Bingo’s, they only serve brisket on sandwiches and they don’t serve ribs or sausage at all. You can get your brisket regular or chopped, and smoked ham and burgers are also available. I ordered one sliced and one chopped to go, paid my $10 or so and headed home to eat and contemplate in more comfort than the little school-desks allowed. First, about the difference between regular and chopped beef - there is none. The meat is cut the same either way, but if you want it chopped they just chop it up before placing it on the bun. The meat for my sandwiches seemed to come of the “top” or fatty part of the brisket (“Lean” brisket is available for an extra charge). The meat on both my sandwiches was very moist and tender, but the smoky flavor was faint. The sandwiches were good, but a little too small and a little too fatty. The vinegar-based sauce had a nice tang to it, and helped to flavor up the beef.

Frankly, I think most Lubbock ‘cue aficionados would agree with me that Tom & Bingo’s, while a neat place with some history behind it, does not serve the city’s best brisket. I’ve eaten there before, and in my experience this was a pretty typical meal. It was good, but not outstanding, and left me wondering just how many Lubbock places got tried by Texas Monthly before they settled on this one again (Tom & Bingo’s was recognized in the first TM survey, I understand). Sometimes I think they focus more on the “joint” and less on the “BBQ”.
Rating **

- Midnight Smoker

Eddie's BBQ

Eddie’s BBQ
1324 East 50th (west of MLK)
Lubbock, Texas
806-747-3736
Open M-F, 11am-3pm
Eddie DeLavan, Prop.

Guest Contributor: Midnight Smoker sent in this review from the Panhandle. Expect him to be a future contributor for other joints in his area.

Eddie’s Bar-B-Que is a lunch-only joint located in an industrial neighborhood on Lubbock’s east side. Eddie’s been at it for about 3½ years now and has developed a pretty good following at lunch, when I am a regular customer. Last Friday, though, I passed up my regular sliced brisket sandwich in favor of a Three Meat Combo with brisket, sausage and pork ribs. I was glad I did.

The best part of a meal at Eddie’s is always the brisket. Over the years I’ve been a regular at a few places and know that the quality of smoked brisket can be inconsistent. Just last week I ate at a Texas Monthly Top 50 joint with brisket so dry I had to drown it in sauce and wash it down with coke. Eddie tops his brisket out and uses the bottom portion for his “sliced beef”, so the slices are naturally very lean, yet they are always tender and moist and nicely smoked. Today’s serving was no exception, and though I forgot to request sauce on the side (rookie mistake, I know), I did not need it.



The pork ribs were also delicious. The dry rub formed a flavorful crust
and even though my ribs were huge, the meat was easily pulled off the bone from end to end, smoke penetration was easy to see and taste, and the fat was well rendered throughout each one. Eddie’s sausage is a hot link delivered from Houston that he smokes before serving. It was smoky and moist and spicy but not too spicy (still, next time I’ll just go with the brisket and ribs). The from-scratch side of pintos was good, with a peppery taste I like, but the potato salad was pre-made and not that great – next time I’ll try the slaw. Eddie’s sauce is on the sweet side and can dominate the meat if care isn’t taken, so it’s better to get it on the side.




For about $11 I got the combo and a coke and was able to eat my fill at lunch and have enough left over for dinner that night. Eddie’s is a pretty easy drive for me, but if it wasn’t I’d be taking a few long lunches, for sure.

Rating ***