Sunday, October 11, 2009


FT. WORTH: Angelo's
2533 White Settlement Drive
Fort Worth, TX 76107
Open M-Sat 11-10

Update 2009: If you've never had braunschweiger, you probably wouldn't expect it to be available at a BBQ joint, but it's something that Angelo's has been serving for years. The pit master questioned us when we ordered to ensure that we knew we were ordering pork liver sausage. We accepted the challenge. The meat has an undeniably strong liver flavor. The meat is sliced thick and served cold, and there's a reason the sandwich includes pickles, onions, mustard and BBQ sauce. You need something to mask this flavor.

The Combo plate of ribs and sliced brisket was great again. The sides aren't anything special, but are always satisfying. The brisket was sliced thick and each slice was moist and nearly falling apart tender. The smokiness was evident, and the overall flavor was excellent. Luckily the fat in the ribs was well rendered, because there was plenty of it. Picking out the meat revealed incredibly moist and flavorful pork. The thick crust provided a robust flavor that did away with any need for sauce.

After our meal we were given a tour of the custom brick and steel pits. There are two pits on either side of a small back room. One pit is solely for brisket while the other is for ribs, sausage and the rest of their smoked items.

Even with the failed braunschweiger experiment, Angelo's delivers great smoked meat. It might be a bit fatty, but the flavors are always smokey, and the beers are always ice cold. I'd be a regular if I lived a little closer.

Rating ****

Update 2008: Another solid meal at Angelo's was had. The brisket was still tender and smoky, and the ribs were still flavorful and meaty. There was a tad too much fat in the ribs that had to be picked around, but the tenderness and crust were spot on. Either way, meat and conversation enjoyed over an ice cold schooner of beer are always better.

2007: This Ft. Worth institution has never disappointed, as long as you have cash. Arriving in the parking lot, you're greeted with the sweet scent of smoking meat. Just inside the door, a stuffed bear also greets you. I ordered a two-meat plate with brisket and ribs, and just as important, a chilled schooner of draft beer. The two-meat plate comes with an impressive list of sides. It includes cole slaw, potato salad, barbecue beans, white bread, onions, a pickle spear, and a hot pepper. What a meal. The ribs had excellent flavor from a robust rub, but were missing the bold smoke I was expecting. The moist ribs were also a bit fatty, but overall they were above average. The brisket was fall-apart tender, but was a bit dry. The smoke flavor permeated the meat, but was not overpowering, and the crust gave the whole slice great salty flavor. With so many disappointments in the Metroplex BBQ world, It's nice to have a rock solid option.

Angelo's on Urbanspoon


Anonymous said...

Credit cards are now accepted (5/09)

PM Summer said...

Is the braunschweiger smoked? That would be interesting.

It looks more like liverwurst. Either way, I recommend it with mayo and cracked black pepper... the way Frau Schömner served it when I was a kid.

Anonymous said...

I'm surprised Angelo's continues to receive a four-star rating. I've lived nearby for more than a decade, and for the past few years I've found the meat quality inconsistent. It can be very dry some days, especially the brisket. Just my opinion, but lately they aren't living up to their reputation.

Anonymous said...

Poor, poor, poor is all I can say. The brisket has the texture of pot roast, with little evidence of any sort of smoke ring. Worse yet, was watching the hack job of the knife man on the brisket. It looks liked it was attacked with a chainsaw, resulting in all the delicious bark left on the cutting board. The ribs with dry, flavorless, and looked like they had been reheated. I must say, since I moved to DFW in Feb. I've been eating my way through your D magazine list, been turned on to some greats (Longorias, Smokey's) and not so greats (Cousin's) and if there is anything I am learning, it's to beware the so-called "institutions" in bbq. Angelo's along with Sonny Bryan's have been big disappointments for me. Makes me worried for when I finally make those bbq pilgrimages south to Taylor and Lockhart for Louie Mueller's or Smitty's.

Ed Tom Kowalsky said...

This review sounded less flattering than the review for Up N' Smoke, yet Angelo's received four stars to Up N' Smoke's three. A bit confusing. Personally, I trust the review more than the stars.

BBQ Snob said...

Fair assessment. Sometimes the way the review is written is tempered by expectations (high at Angelo's, not so much at Up 'N Smoke), but I try not to let the star rating be affected by those same expectations.

Anonymous said...

This is a very disappointing BBQ place. The meat was dry and tasteless. The sides were about as mediocre as it gets.

What really griped me was that there is absolutely no opportuntiy to graze for onions, sauce, pickles, lemons, hot peppers or anything.

If the bear was alive he'd leave.

Anonymous said...

I'm sorry but Four stars for this place is not credible. I've been there many times over the years with friends. A unique atmosphere. but the ribs and brisket consistently have no flavor.

Doug Zedler said...

My most recent trip to Angelo's was last week. I ordered fatty brisket and pork ribs. Good, solid barbecue. I'm not sure why some commenters have been so disappointed.

Unknown said...

Recently discovered your site via twitter. Moved from Dallas to Ft. Worth a couple of years ago and was excited for some assistance in navigating new BBQ waters. Then I read this. Angelo's seemed to be on the lips of every person I queried about where the good BBQ could be found in FT. Worth. While I don't have your impressive resume, Angelo's was easily the worst I've had in town. It reminded me of every spare small-town Texas BBQ joint that had me hating BBQ until I finally had better. I'm now wondering if I can trust your opinion at all.

Kyle said...

Just returned from Angelo's...first trip in 15 years. The sausage grew on me -- first few bites were not great, but the pepper came through later, which was nice. The brisket was tender, decent amount of smokiness, with well-rendered fat. The ribs, however, left much to be desired. No smoke whatsoever, and could not find flavor at all.


Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.