Thursday, April 21, 2011

Riscky's BBQ (Original)

2314 Azle Ave

Fort Worth, TX 76164


Open M-Sat 8:30-7

I've had both good and mediocre experiences at two other Fort Worth locations of Riscky's, but was told by a few folks that the original location on Azle was one of the best. I was also told not to miss the meaty (no beans) chili. I arrived for a late lunch with my two year old daughter who was craving sweets, so having the option of banana pudding as a side item on my combo plate was great. Getting to choose three sides was even better.

Pea salad is a quintessential Texas dish. Even some New Yorkers I know can make a great version. It starts with fresh or frozen peas. To that you add a mayo based dressing, onions, cheese and bacon bits if you're lucky. Using mushy and salty canned peas as Riscky's does is an unfortunate choice that results in a not so pleasing side. Riscky's again offends the Texas BBQ lover with a poor rendition of one of my favorite desserts. Banana pudding is the national BBQ dessert of Texas. It too has a simple recipe for success that includes few items. None of these should be the palate torturing concoction that is fake banana flavoring. Even my daughter wouldn't eat it.

The meat was a bit better. Ribs were tender, moist and had a good flavor from the rub. They were missing solid smoke flavoring, but were decent overall. Brisket was a good version of salted roast beef, but couldn't be confused for high quality smoked meat. It really needed a dip in the sauce to liven it up. The only flawless dish was the chili. Made with little more than ground beef, chili powder and some water, this bowl of red showed some real Texas roots. It's too bad that just the chili really satisfies at this Texas BBQ joint.

Rating **
Riscky's Barbeque on Urbanspoon

No comments:


Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.