Sunday, September 26, 2010

Tony's Barbeque & Grill

FORT WORTH: Tony's Barbeque & Grill
1704 Galveston Ave.

Fort Worth, TX 76110


Open M-Sat 11-10

I've never seen smoked salami on a Texas BBQ menu, so over the blaring television I yelled my order to the surly pitmaster. He blamed a supplier, saying they were out for the day, so I'd have to return another day to try it. I opted for a bologna sandwich instead which proved a substandard substitution. I waited a few minutes in the AC free zone while the sandwich and my combo plate were assembled.

The ribs were a high point with a nice salty rub and a slightly sweet glaze that wasn't overpowering. The meat was well cooked, but lacked smokiness. The bologna sandwich was an unappetizing slice of barely warm tube steak that weighed in at about 1/2 pound. I would be surprised to find that it had been smoked.

Brisket was good and smoky from the hickory and mesquite mixture, but the chunks of white fat warned me that this might be last night's brisket. Indeed the slices were not even warmed through, and crumbled as I picked up a slice. While the flavor was passable, it's sad to see so little pride in in serving the finished product.

Despite the earlier brisket snafu, I opted to drop by a week later when the smoked salami called me from down the street as I was in the area for another reason. What showed up did not equal my excitement. A poor version of cotto salami was a dead ringer for the bologna outside of the few flecks of pepper corn.

Fool me twice, shame on me.

Rating *
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Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.