Saturday, March 17, 2012

Hinze's Bar-B-Q

WHARTON: Hinze's Bar-B-Q
8229 U.S. Hwy 59

Wharton, TX 77488


Open M-Sat 10-9, Sun 10-4

The sign out by the road is showing its age, but Hinze's just north of Wharton has come a long way from its tiny original building. The current restaurant is as large as the menu. A couple of very large trees shoot right up through the front dining area and hold a western mural above the roof. Just inside the doors you'll normally find a sizable line. Ordering is done at the register, then food is called out by order number after a short wait.

While we waited, the staff did a good job of up-selling us with a piece of lemon meringue pie, but let's get to the meat first. Pecan smoked brisket had a good bark and beautiful smokering. The meat was a bit tough and trimmed extra lean, but remained moist. It had decent smoke, but really needed some seasoning. The lean, thin ribs were excellent. The meat had good smoke and excellent flavor from a sweet rub and subtle glaze. The texture was on the dry side, but in a pleasing way. The meat didn't crumble nor was it juicy. It came easily from the bone and had great flavor. Three sides come with the plates at Hinze's. Green beans, potato salad and onion rings were all good, if not great versions of these basic accompaniments.

We weren't disappointed with the pie selection. A mile high meringue was impressive, but the lemon beneath and the buttery crust that supported it were the stars of the show. A warning sign behind the register says "Our lemon pies are made with real lemon juice. They are very tart". It was tart, and it was perfect. Don't leave here without at least a slice from their impressive selection.

Rating ***

No comments:


Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.