WHARTON: Hinze's Bar-B-Q 8229 U.S. Hwy 59
Wharton, TX 77488
979-532-2710
Open M-Sat 10-9, Sun 10-4
www.hinzesbarbque.com
The sign out by the road is showing its age, but Hinze's just north of Wharton has come a long way from its tiny original building. The current restaurant is as large as the menu. A couple of very large trees shoot right up through the front dining area and hold a western mural above the roof. Just inside the doors you'll normally find a sizable line. Ordering is done at the register, then food is called out by order number after a short wait.
While we waited, the staff did a good job of up-selling us with a piece of lemon meringue pie, but let's get to the meat first. Pecan smoked brisket had a good bark and beautiful smokering. The meat was a bit tough and trimmed extra lean, but remained moist. It had decent smoke, but really needed some seasoning. The lean, thin ribs were excellent. The meat had good smoke and excellent flavor from a sweet rub and subtle glaze. The texture was on the dry side, but in a pleasing way. The meat didn't crumble nor was it juicy. It came easily from the bone and had great flavor. Three sides come with the plates at Hinze's. Green beans, potato salad and onion rings were all good, if not great versions of these basic accompaniments.
We weren't disappointed with the pie selection. A mile high meringue was impressive, but the lemon beneath and the buttery crust that supported it were the stars of the show. A warning sign behind the register says "Our lemon pies are made with real lemon juice. They are very tart". It was tart, and it was perfect. Don't leave here without at least a slice from their impressive selection.
Rating ***
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