Riscky's BBQ (Original)

FORT WORTH: Riscky's BBQ
2314 Azle Ave
Fort Worth, TX 76164
817-624-8662
Open M-Sat 8:30-7
www.risckys.com

I've had both good and mediocre experiences at two other Fort Worth locations of Riscky's, but was told by a few folks that the original location on Azle was one of the best. I was also told not to miss the meaty (no beans) chili. I arrived for a late lunch with my two year old daughter who was craving sweets, so having the option of banana pudding as a side item on my combo plate was great. Getting to choose three sides was even better.



Pea salad is a quintessential Texas dish. Even some New Yorkers I know can make a great version. It starts with fresh or frozen peas. To that you add a mayo based dressing, onions, cheese and bacon bits if you're lucky. Using mushy and salty canned peas as Riscky's does is an unfortunate choice that results in a not so pleasing side. Riscky's again offends the Texas BBQ lover with a poor rendition of one of my favorite desserts. Banana pudding is the national BBQ dessert of Texas. It too has a simple recipe for success that includes few items. None of these should be the palate torturing concoction that is fake banana flavoring. Even my daughter wouldn't eat it.

The meat was a bit better. Ribs were tender, moist and had a good flavor from the rub. They were missing solid smoke flavoring, but were decent overall. Brisket was a good version of salted roast beef, but couldn't be confused for high quality smoked meat. It really needed a dip in the sauce to liven it up. The only flawless dish was the chili. Made with little more than ground beef, chili powder and some water, this bowl of red showed some real Texas roots. It's too bad that just the chili really satisfies at this Texas BBQ joint.

Rating **

BBQ Book Review: Barbecue Lover's Guide to Austin

Title: Barbecue Lover's Guide to Austin
Author: Gloria Corral
Published: 2010 by Barbecue Lover's Guide

Gloria Corral moved to Austin in 2008 and promptly immersed herself in the local BBQ culture. This book is a collection of profiles for many joints in and around Austin, the furthest of which is Snow's which is an hour and a half away in Lexington. I call them profiles because none of the entries resemble reviews. Nothing distinguishes each joint, so you may walk away form the book with an equal opinion of Bone Daddy's and Bill Miller BBQ as you would for City Market in Luling or Louie Mueller. While the lack of opinions make it less useful for those looking to go straight for the good stuff, the overall breadth of her list is impressive. There are seventy profiles, and the list dives much deeper than most Austin based lists. You can tell there was an honest search for BBQ along the backroads of the area. The black and white illustrations create a nice study of BBQ joint signage. Each one page profile includes a drawing of the joint's sign along with the basic information, most importantly, the hours of operation.

It's obvious that the author has given herself an adequate Texas BBQ baptism to have an honest opinion about the genre. I just wish she'd share them. Maybe her second edition (already in the works) will provide some insight on which joints are worth the visit.

- BBQ Snob

Smokie's Bar-B-Q

DALLAS: Smokie's Bar-B-Q
6869 Frankford Rd.
Dallas, TX 75252
972-815-8500
Open M-Sat 10:30-8:00, Sun 10:30-6:30
www.bbq-delivery.com

Delivery is certainly not a new concept in food service, but I've rarely seen a BBQ joint that specializes in it. Smokie's shares the front half of a convenience store with the main check-out counter, but a large part of their business is done through deliveries made by the owner and pitmaster. I placed my order inside and took a spot at one of a few tables. While you wait for your order, you can peruse the aisles of African and Indian spices, or grab some beef biltong out of the cooler.



Brisket was smoky and well seasoned, and showed real potential. Unfortunately, the meat was a bit dry and over tender. A trip around the microwave just before serving probably didn't help. Ribs also had good smoke, but were also overcooked. The meat was tender and moist, but came too easily from the bone. Sausage had good spice, but the casing was chewy rather than snappy. Sides of previously frozen corn and canned sweet beans were afterthoughts, but the homemade cakes were dense, sweet and tasty.

Rating **