Craig's Bar-B-Q

ARKANSAS: Craig's Bar-B-Q
15 W Walnut De Valls
Bluff, AR 72041
870-998-2616
Open Daily 9-5

Some of the best BBQ joints are know and even revered for having less than ideally maintained facilities. A little dirt here and there is probably more easily accepted in a BBQ joint than any other food establishment, but this joint takes it to another level. A puddle of water had settled in the middle of the dining room floor where concrete was exposed beneath several layers of well worn linoleum. I pondered the duck hunting themed paneling that was more than a few years old (it's been open since 1947) while I waited for my order of ribs and a pork sandwich.



I didn't have the stomach for the hot sauce this day, so I wussed out and got mild. A sandwich of sliced pork would have been a bit dry if not for the addition of the runny but crisp mayo-based slaw and the thick grainy sauce. The sauce was in no way sweet, but had aromatic flavors from cinnamon, allspice and possibly cloves (although this site claims it's more simple). While unique, it wasn't a sauce that I particularly enjoyed, mainly for its texture, but there are many who love it.



Although there were fewer ingredients to compensate for the sauce, the ribs were more enjoyable. Certainly not butchered to be lookers, these ribs were well cooked, had a good smoky flavor and were plenty tender. What I needed after this meal was a good sweet dessert, so I am now kicking myself after learning that one of the best pies can be found just across the street from this joint. I didn't have a chance to sample Mary Thomas' pies this time, but I'll be sure to stop if I''m that way again.

Rating ***

Charlie Vergos' Rendezvous

MEMPHIS: Charlie Vergos' Rendezvous
52 S 2nd St
Memphis, TN 38103
901-523-2746
Open Tues-Thur 4:30-10:30, F 11-11, Sat 11:30-11
www.hogsfly.com

After a long day of BBQ'ing in Memphis, we needed a break, so we made our way back to the hotel to let things digest and watch some Grizzlies playoff basketball. As halftime neared I was catching my second wind and knew it was time to place an order at the famous Charlie Vergos' Rendezvous (I never could figure out the placement of that apostrophe since it's different on the menu and the sign. The sign seems incorrect since the name is 'Vergos'). The back alley that it fronts was just down the street from my hotel, so I grabbed a big to-go order to enjoy while watching the second half.



The rub of Greek spices certainly woke up the taste buds. This was the most liberally applied seasoning of the day. They don't call it a dry rub because it's applied during the cooking and not afterwards. They also prefer that you eat the ribs sans sauce. These baby back pork ribs are cooked over a direct heat charcoal fire so the fact that they were a bit tough was no surprise. For lack of a better word, they were very porky in flavor. Even with all that rub the flavor of pork pushed through. In all of those flavor profiles, one thing lacking was a good smokiness. Lamb ribs had a flavor profile all their own, and luckily is was not of mutton. These were definitely the milder tasting young lamb. This cut is normally very fatty, which is fine, but the fat on these ribs came in unfortunately chewy layers.



The pork sandwich in my order was constructed from a dinner roll, a fork full or two of the pulled pork, some coleslaw and a drizzle of the sauce. While not a true Rendezvous pork sandwich, it was satisfying thanks to very moist and tender pork. Sides of that mustard based slaw and salty beans were also good. Rendezvous is certainly a Memphis institution. Much of that reputation is based on the back alley location, the great service from an experienced staff, and a great atmosphere, but the food is not an afterthought. It may be overrun with tourists, but a trap, this is not.

Rating ***

Leonard's Pit Barbecue

MEMPHIS: Leonard's Pit Barbecue
5465 Fox Plaza Dr
Memphis, TN 38115
901-360-1963
Open Sun-Thur 11-8, F-Sat 11-9
www.leonardsbarbecue.com

It was late in the day, so there is no denying that we had lost that BBQ craving by the time we made it to Leonard's. There's also no denying that when ribs are good, it doesn't matter how full you are.



First up was the Mr. Leonard sandwich. This concoction of pork, sauce and slaw was named after the founder of this joint. Opened by Leonard Heuberger in 1922, Leonard's found it's current home in this location in 1987. That's probably when they installed the Southern Pride pit since gas cookers probably weren't around back in the 20's. In addition to the gas fired pit stoked with hickory is the finishing pit which uses pure charcoal for fuel. Unseasoned pork shoulders are cooked in the Southern Pride rotisserie pit, then finished and crisped in the charcoal fired pit. This creates some incredibly tender, moist meat while also providing a unique smokiness. The addition of the mustard slaw heavy on celery seed and the sweet and vinegary sauce make a great pork sandwich. If the Mr. Leonard isn't enough, then for just $1 more you can opt for the Big Leonard.



The rib plate came with two sides. Beans and BBQ spaghetti were hard to pass up, and those smokey, sweet and thick beans made a great complement to the dinner. I should have read the menu more carefully, and I would have expected the flavors I got when I took a bite of the spaghetti. It was spaghetti with a basic meat sauce. You see, Leonard's serves up ravioli, spaghetti and other Italian favorites, just not BBQ spaghetti. The ribs made me forget all about those sides anyway. The meat gets the double smoker treatment as well creating a crispy crust which envelops the perfectly smoked meat beneath. The rub doesn't overpower but allows the flavor of the meat shine through, and the flavor was excellent. It's no wonder they've been going for nine decades.

Rating ****