Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Bar H Country Store

FANNETT: Bar H Country Store
Interstate 10 at Hwy 365
Fannett, Texas 77705
Open Daily 6am-10pm

It was pouring down rain and we were on our way to the coast. A bevy of seafood awaited, but we'd heard some promising things about this joint in the middle of our morning route from Port Arthur to Bolivar Peninsula. The interior had most of the product shelves removed that you'd expect to see inside a convenience store to make way for a dining area. Orders are given at the cashier's counter, but the meat is carved and plated in the back.

When the plate arrived it was nice to see that my request for no sauce was honored until I noticed they had pooled it on the bottom of the plate. I was able to save a rib and a slice of pork from the sauce, but all of the lean slices of brisket had been dunked. Those slices were thin and dry with no fat and little crust. Smoke flavor was hard to detect making it little more than roast beef. Ribs were better with a hefty rub and some decent smoke. The meat was tender and moist and the best meat on the plate. Dried out slices of pork had a washed out flavor and not much going for it. I was excited for the dirty rice on the side, but it was the spicy beans that were more memorable. Not a whole lot else was.

Rating **

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Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.