Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Porky's Smokehouse & Grill

MARSHALL: Porky's Smokehouse & Grill
504 East Carolanne Blvd.
Marshall, TX 75672
Open M-Sat 11-8

Accordion brisket is a phenomenon that occurs when the brisket flat is poorly cooked and the collagen holds the muscle fibers together like a series of tiny rubberbands. When you try to pull the meat apart it should release easily, but when it's undercooked it will spring back like an accordion. The thin slices of beef at Porky's are a shining example of this. They had been trimmed of all fat and crust before they arrived at the table. The plan had been to take them to go, but a heavy rain had just begun so we opened the styrofoam box at a table near the door. Crispy onion rings and sweet beans made for a great combination of sides, but the meat was a disappointment.

Bodacious barbecue is an East Texas chain that gets more accolades that it deserves. I noticed while eating across the region that many joints seemed to emulate the Bodacious style even if they weren't officially affiliated with the chain. Not only is the over-trimmed brisket a signature, but so are the thin and dryish St. Louis style ribs covered in a sweet peppery glaze. The ribs at Porky's had this same profile, but the smoke was nowhere to be found. The meat came easily from the bone, but most of the moisture in the meat was long gone. While slightly better than the brisket, there wasn't enough to make this joint worth returning for.

Rating **


Cody E said...

Your review is a little confusing. This post is supposed to be about Porky's, yet you start talking about Bodacious. The Marshall location of Bodacious is worth the visit. Having eaten at several of the Bodacious locations myself, I find the Marshall one to be the best. Yes, they are guilty of trimming too much off the brisket, but you can ask and they will trim/cut it anyway you want. They focus on the customer as we as the food and do a large amount of business as a result. I did work there about 10 years ago when I started college, but I have no affiliation with them. I just think the food is really good. Give them a chance.

Anonymous said...

Ditto. The generous smoky Brisket Sammich at Bodacious in Marshall can't be beat!


Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.