Sunday, October 11, 2009
FT. WORTH: Angelo's
2533 White Settlement Drive
Fort Worth, TX 76107
Open M-Sat 11-10
Update 2009: If you've never had braunschweiger, you probably wouldn't expect it to be available at a BBQ joint, but it's something that Angelo's has been serving for years. The pit master questioned us when we ordered to ensure that we knew we were ordering pork liver sausage. We accepted the challenge. The meat has an undeniably strong liver flavor. The meat is sliced thick and served cold, and there's a reason the sandwich includes pickles, onions, mustard and BBQ sauce. You need something to mask this flavor.
The Combo plate of ribs and sliced brisket was great again. The sides aren't anything special, but are always satisfying. The brisket was sliced thick and each slice was moist and nearly falling apart tender. The smokiness was evident, and the overall flavor was excellent. Luckily the fat in the ribs was well rendered, because there was plenty of it. Picking out the meat revealed incredibly moist and flavorful pork. The thick crust provided a robust flavor that did away with any need for sauce.
After our meal we were given a tour of the custom brick and steel pits. There are two pits on either side of a small back room. One pit is solely for brisket while the other is for ribs, sausage and the rest of their smoked items.
Even with the failed braunschweiger experiment, Angelo's delivers great smoked meat. It might be a bit fatty, but the flavors are always smokey, and the beers are always ice cold. I'd be a regular if I lived a little closer.
Update 2008: Another solid meal at Angelo's was had. The brisket was still tender and smoky, and the ribs were still flavorful and meaty. There was a tad too much fat in the ribs that had to be picked around, but the tenderness and crust were spot on. Either way, meat and conversation enjoyed over an ice cold schooner of beer are always better.
2007: This Ft. Worth institution has never disappointed, as long as you have cash. Arriving in the parking lot, you're greeted with the sweet scent of smoking meat. Just inside the door, a stuffed bear also greets you. I ordered a two-meat plate with brisket and ribs, and just as important, a chilled schooner of draft beer. The two-meat plate comes with an impressive list of sides. It includes cole slaw, potato salad, barbecue beans, white bread, onions, a pickle spear, and a hot pepper. What a meal. The ribs had excellent flavor from a robust rub, but were missing the bold smoke I was expecting. The moist ribs were also a bit fatty, but overall they were above average. The brisket was fall-apart tender, but was a bit dry. The smoke flavor permeated the meat, but was not overpowering, and the crust gave the whole slice great salty flavor. With so many disappointments in the Metroplex BBQ world, It's nice to have a rock solid option.
Posted by BBQ Snob at 1:15 PM
Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.
-THE PROPHETS OF SMOKED MEAT
-THE PROPHETS OF SMOKED MEAT