Evett's Bar-B-Que

UVALDE: Evett's Bar-B-Que
301 E Main St
Uvalde, TX 78801
830-278-6204
Open Tues-F 10:30-6, Sat 10:30-4

Tens of thousands of butterflies were hurling themselves into the grilles and windshields of the vehicles humming along Highway 90 during a morning drive from Del Rio to Uvalde during the great butterfly migration in search of good 'cue. Along Main Street in Uvalde, I found Evett's just down from the closed down shell of Haby's. I wish I'd made it to Uvalde a few years ago to try the famed Haby's, but Evett's certainly made up for it. Before we get to the meat, the sides here were great. The potato salad was mustard based with nearly mashed potatoes, flecks of red pepper and a hint of sugar. Pinto beans rather than bbq beans are the standard in this area of Texas, and this joint puts out a good version. The meat was not to be outdone by the sides though. The brisket had a good smoky crust with a great flavor throughout, but little smoke was evident in bites without crust. The fat could have been more well rendered, and the slices were a bit dry, but a good brisket overall. The ribs were big spare ribs that arrived sauced. This is by rule a negative, but this thin, slightly sweet sauce did nothing but complement the deeply smoky meat. The crust was still evident beneath the sauce, and the meat below it was perfectly tender and all the fat had been rendered creating a nearly perfect rib. A better brisket would have bumped up the rating, but this was a great find in an out-of-the-way town.

Rating ****