Sunday, March 1, 2009

Smokey Joe's Bar-B-Que

DALLAS: Smokey Joe's Bar-B-Que
6407 S R L Thornton Fwy
Dallas, TX 75232
Open M 11-9, Tues-Thur 11-11, F-Sat 11-12, Sun 11-6

This tiny take-out only joint is just a few doors down from H & J BBQ. We entered through the large metal door, and immediately my nostrils were blasted with the sweet smell of hickory smoke. Ordering is done at a counter that is mere feet from the large smoker in the kitchen, so I was able to watch all of the BBQ production as I waited. I was also able to read the countless advertisements for various services on the wall including one for open semi-pro league football try-outs.

A few minutes later in my car, I opened the take-out container that weighed in as a true heavyweight. A heap of ribs and sliced brisket sat alongside a double order of whipped potato salad. Similar to H&J, the spare ribs were chopped down to small unrecognizable bits of pork. Unlike H&J's, these ribs contained gobs of unrendered fat and little meat. The meat that did remain held little of the smoke flavor I had expected based on my previous observations. The brisket was also lacking the expected smokiness. The meat was moist, but slightly tough, and any crust or fat had been trimmed leaving only monochromatic dark gray slices of beef. The potato salad was definitely homemade, but the amount of sugar added made is taste closer to ambrosia than spuds. Overall, it ws a bit disappointing for a $15 plate of 'cue. I might give this joint another chance, but it'll really just be an excuse to go next door to H&J's again.

Rating **
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Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.