Monday, July 6, 2009
COLLEYVILLE: Daddy Joe’s Smokehouse Barbecue
5220 State Hwy 121
Colleyville, TX 76034
Open Daily 11-2am
Update: This joint is CLOSED.
07/2009: Andy Caster has taken over a location that has been plagued by controversy as of late. After Mark Gabrick and Dallas Green parted ways, Caster came in to try and patch up the late Cowboys BBQ & Rib Company. Less than a month later, Gabrick was broke, Cowboys was shuttered, and Caster reopened the joint as Daddy Joe's. The menu is definitely shorter on non-BBQ items providing more focus on the 'cue. Prices have also been lowered and hours extended attempting to bring in a higher volume of customers.
I ordered a two-meat combo to-go, and although ribs are not listed as an option on the combo plate, they were included on this visit without hesitation. When I returned to the car to find a full 1/2 slab of baby backs, I realized why they hadn't been offered on the combo plate. I was now nestled in my front seat ready to enjoy the bounty before me. At first sight, I knew these ribs would be fall-off-the-bone tender (not a positive). They had all the signs of baked and basted meat, and were covered in a thick red sauce. The meat did have some smoke on it providing a kick of flavor aside from the sauce, but a generous hand wielded the basting brush today, so the meat wasn't really allowed to shine.
The brisket had a nice black pepper bite to the rub which allowed a dark crust and deep smokeline to develop. A line of well rendered fat hugged the edge of these slices from the flat cut of the brisket. Smoke flavor didn't quite permeate the entire slice, but the level of smoke was higher than what I've come to expect in DFW. Each slice was moist and flavorful if a bit tough, but I would order this again without hesitation.
The sides were average compared to what I previously enjoyed at Cowboys. Onion rings had come straight from a freezer bag, and the server recommended black eyed peas were a one dimensional mixture of peas, water and Rotel.
I understand why this joint has sold out a bit to do a more tradtional Memphis style rib given the popularity of the term fall-off-the-bone tender, and its grossly over-hyped merits. You would also hope that a joint serving these ribs wouldn't use display their creed, "If it ain't smoked, it ain't Texan" so prominently on their website. It's just that true Texas BBQ cannot be treated this way, and it will not go unnoticed here. If they would just lay those slabs to gently cook alongside those well smoked briskets, this joint could climb quickly in this blog's ranking.
Posted by BBQ Snob at 8:48 AM
Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.
-THE PROPHETS OF SMOKED MEAT
-THE PROPHETS OF SMOKED MEAT