Saturday, July 18, 2009
DALLAS: Luckie's Smokehouse
4351 Dallas FT Worth Turnpike
Dallas, TX 75212
Open M-Thur 10:30-10:30, F-Sat 10:30-12am, Sun 10:30-10
Update: This joint is CLOSED. They plan to reopen in Oak Cliff on Davis in early 2011.
2009: When I heard about this joint opening on Pegasus News, I couldn't wait to head west on I-30 and give it a try. Maybe this place would prove to be that elusive BBQ joint in Dallas that serves truly great 'cue. As I pulled into the shopping center parking lot, I was immediately filled with skepticism upon seeing the words "Famous BBQ" on the sign. Just how can a brand new restaurant with no BBQ history be famous? Try and stay open for at least a month before making such needless claims.
Three eager employees clamored to take a friend and I's order. We chose sides from a large chalkboard labelled"Side Items" but were informed that some were not available, and others, like the fried green beans, weren't really considered sides, but had to be ordered separately. I chose a three meat plate with sliced brisket, pork ribs and pulled pork, as they did not yet have sausage. A side of all three available sauces was added onto the tray.
Ribs were generously sized spare ribs. The tough meat was covered in a thick layer of rub so heavy on the chile powder, its taste resembled taco seasoning. Tearing at the meat with my teeth only revealed thick layers of unrendered fat beneath. The brisket was among the worst that I've ever eaten. Slices were tough with most of the intramuscular fat still intact from the inadequate smoking time. The total lack of crust, smoke ring and flavor makes me question whether this meat had just been boiled near the smoker and still considered barbecue. The pulled pork was the only meat of merit here, but even it had been cooked too fast leaving tough chunks of meat that had no chance of being "pulled" apart.
Sauces were also underwhelming. The Memphis style sauce was more reminiscient of corn syrup than barbecue sauce, the "Carolina" style sauce was tomatoe based with little vinegar kick, and tasted like a Peggy Sue knock-off. The third, a chipotle sauce was actually complex with adequate heat and not too sweet. Baked beans were a mixture of pork 'n beans with a sweet sauce, while green chile corn pudding was a pleasingly dense mixture of cornmeal, spicy chiles and whole kernels of corn. This was sadly the best item on the plate.
Luckie's needs to improve its smoking process if it plans to stay on the 'cue radar in Dallas. Right now, it deserves little of its "fame".
Posted by BBQ Snob at 7:02 AM
Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.
-THE PROPHETS OF SMOKED MEAT
-THE PROPHETS OF SMOKED MEAT