Sunday, August 9, 2009

Hilltop BBQ

1250 East Hwy 199
Springtown, TX 76082
Open ?

Update: This joint is CLOSED.

2009: Perched on a prominent hill along the highway, this aptly named joint is housed in a newish metal building. Several months ago, it had a change in ownership, and the new owners aim to please. Although meat by the pound was not on the menu, they were happy to oblige my request for two ribs and 1/4 lb of sliced brisket. They even threw in a complimentary side of jalapeno corn simply because they're so proud of it.

Both meats had a heavy rub that lended a jerky flavor. The brisket had a bold beefy flavor, but the slightly tough meat held almost no smokiness. Sadly all the fat was cut away as I watched, and with it went the moisture. The ribs were even a bit tougher with the same lack of smoke. Lines of unrendered fat ran through the somewhat stringy meat. After the less than stellar 'cue, the rich jalapeno corn was a welcome punch to the taste buds. Fresh kernels were mixed with butter, cream and jalapeno bits to form a sweet, spicy and satisfying concoction that I couldn't stop eating.

Rating **
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Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.