Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Tillman's Roadhouse

FORT WORTH: Tillman's Roadhouse
2933 Crockett St

Fort Worth, TX 76107


Open M-Thur 11-11, F-Sat 11-2am, Sun 10:30-11


While this restaurant has long hours every day of the week, barbecue is served at lunch only, and during brunch on Sunday. Chef Lance Smith blames it on the size of their wood fired Oyler smoker, which is just too small to smoke a days worth of 'cue. I applaud their willingness to sacrifice some options on the dinner menu to ensure that the BBQ is at it's best for lunch. This is the second location of Tillman's with the first location in the Bishop Arts District in Dallas, and they have one item that has unfortunately carried over - Chipotle BBQ Baby Back Ribs. These ribs were devised as a non-smoked item in the original location, so they're served covered in a gritty marinara-like sauce that is under seasoned with little heat. The meat was a bit dry beneath the sauce, and any smokiness was masked by the unfortunate sauce. Luckily, the rest of the smoked meat items were much better.

The mixture of oak, hickory and pecan worked well to create a great crust on the brisket, which had a hefty smoky flavor, but nary a smokering. The meat was tender and the nicely rendered fat created some slices worth a return visit. An all beef sausage is made in house. Flecks of herbs and pepper combined with the smoky, well seasoned beef for some great slices of sausage with a nice snap. Crispy potato chips were served on the side, but I had already had my fill since these same chips are complimentary for every table. I guess of all days to get a fill of chips it was most appropriate on National Potato Chip Day.

With slightly better ribs, this place would be a real contender, but their rating suffers despite the excellent brisket and sausage.

Rating ***
Tillman's Roadhouse on Urbanspoon

1 comment:

BBQ pit expert said...

Nice review of the Ft. Worth Tillman's but I have to correct you, sorry. No J&R Oyler there, but they do have a J&R Little Red Smokehouse in the kitchen here.
Looks like chef has got the operation down pretty good.


Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.