Monday, June 11, 2012

Fritze's BBQ

BOERNE: Fritze's BBQ
926 N Main Street
Boerne, TX 78006
Open M-F 7-8, Sat 11-8, Sun 11-2

The longhorn silhouette on the tall sign for Fritze's could be seen a ways up the road. We were headed south into town after a very good meal at Sisterdale Smokehouse. Seeing the gas smokers just behind the counter inside Fritze's had me expecting the worst.

A quarter pound of fatty brisket certainly belongs at the low end of my personal spectrum. Most of the fat had been cut away and the rest had melted out from overcooking. This was fatty brisket and it was dry, which is an accomplishment. The lack of any crust here also meant the flavor was pure roast beef. There wasn't even is whisper of smoke.

A crunchy slaw and some decent skillet potatoes were a nice diversion from the brisket. The ribs too ended up being pretty decent. A special was written on the wall which incorrectly identified them as baby back ribs done in the St. Louis style. These two types of ribs are a different cut, so that was darn near impossible. What we ended up with were some respectable St. Louis ribs. The bark was a nice mahogany color with flecks of black pepper and plenty of salt. The meat verged on dry, but was tender and came ever so easily away from the bone with a clean bite mark left behind. These were well cooked ribs, but could have used more smoke. Even with the awful brisket, I'd return just for the ribs if I was in the area again.

Rating **

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Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.