Sunday, June 24, 2012

Rear of the Steer

OMAHA: Rear of the Steer
800 East Main Street 
Omaha, TX 75571
Open Tues-Sat 10-9, Sun 10-2

The curious name of this joint isn't for an obscure menu item. The menu is certainly huge (think Dairy Queen with a side of BBQ) but they just have the basics of smoked meat. The interior is much like a Dairy Queen as well with formica booths and a long counter for ordering. Plates are assembled back in the kitchen, so I had no way of knowing what to expect from the three meat plate I ordered.

I'd heard about this out of the way joint through their Twitter account where they had boasted some of the state's finest brisket. When the plate arrived I was wondering why they had hidden the product they were so proud of with a thick coating of sweet commercial barbecue sauce. The first bite of dry pork revealed that the smokeless meat needed the boost of moisture from the sauce. The brisket was overcooked and probably cooked the previous day. Too-tender slices had well rendered fat, but there was no smokiness. I tried my best to get a bite of unadultered meat, but the sticky sweet coating was omnipresent. It may have even been decent brisket under there, but I'll never know. A few slices of cheap Eckrich style sausage, frozen onion rings burnt by the fryer and greens too sweet to eat did little to boost the experience. Plates of burgers and other more basic fare looked appetizing, so stick to items between a bun if you visit.

Rating *

No comments:


Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.