Thursday, August 23, 2012

Bo-Bo's BBQ

US Highway 96 south of 21
San Augustine, TX 75972
Open ?

Update: This joint is CLOSED.

2012: Just south of San Augustine the road rises and atop the hill sits this red trailer. Even on this perch, the dirt driveway had captured plenty of the recent rains and we had to trudge through the mud just to get to the ordering window. The owner obliged with a request for a taste of the three meats and soon we had a plate of ribs, brisket and hot links on the hood of my car.

A dusting of dry rub that was mostly sugar graced the entire plate in Memphis style fashion. The hot links were the same cheap version served just down the road at San Augustine's other barbecue food truck, Cowboy Chuck Wagon (How is it that Dallas doesn't even have one?). Tender brisket was drowning in sauce, but it needed the flavor assistance. A thick spare rib had a heavy rub still clinging to half of it, the rest presumably slipping off. The meat still had some chew to it, but was white from edge to edge. There wasn't really a hint of smoke, and it tasted more like a pork chop than a rib. None of it was worth a wade through the mud.

Rating *

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Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.