Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Sonny's Bar-B-Q II

BEAUMONT: Sonny's Bar-B-Q II
2197 Washington Blvd.
Beaumont, TX 77705
Open Tues-Sat 10-6

I learned about this joint from the nephew of the owner who directed me here. We met rather ironically in line at Broussard's down the street, but his family should be proud to know that we wouldn't have sought out Sonny's without his endorsement. We pulled up to a renovated house with a Grand Opening sign out front. Orders were taken at a small counter inside, and meat was sliced and plated back in the kitchen. Our small group filled the folding chairs surrounding a plastic-clad table, and our order came out quickly.

A spicy beef link made in house was similar to another in town at Patillo's, and was equally successful. The loose filling was loaded with spice and garlic and had some good smoke. The only qualm was the too-sweet sauce that didn't add much to the whole.

Brisket was well cooked, but had grown soft and a bit mushy from either wrapping during cooking or being held too long. The smoke was still there, and the little bit of fat remaining was soft, but it needed some improvement beyond more of that sauce.

The menu featured 'regulars' which are rib tips, but they were already sold out. We settled for the standard pork ribs. Good smoky pork would have been quite a bit better after another hour on the smoker. The meat was tough and the unrendered fat chewy. That sauce I didn't love at least complemented the pork, but they provided more potential than satisfaction. Regardless of the ribs and brisket, those homemade links alone are worth a special trip, just leave off the sauce.

Rating **


Ray said...

BBQ Snob, during your East Texas BBQ tour, did you get a chance to hit up Joseph's Riverport BBQ in Jefferson?

BBQ Snob said...

Riverport BBQ was still in reconstruction mode when we were out that way, but it's high on my to-do list.


Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.