Blowin' Smoke 008 - The Low, Slow Road...

"Barbecue’s appeal isn’t hard to fathom and may explain why barbecue cookery seems such a Neanderthal corner of modern gastronomy. It elegantly embraces several stereotypically Guy Things: fire building, beast slaughtering, fiddling with grubby mechanical objects, expensive gear fetishes, afternoon-long beer drinking, and, of course, great heaps of greasy meat at the end of the day. Top this off with the frisson of ritual tribal warfare and you’ve got the mother of all male pastimes."

That's just a taste of this truly fine article written by David Dudley in "Baltimore Magazine". Here's a link for more of "The Low, Slow Road to Perfect Barbecue".

-BBQ Snob

H&J B.B.Q.

DALLAS: H&J B.B.Q.
6205 S R L Thornton Fwy
Dallas, TX 75232
214-371-5420
Open M-Thur 11-11, F-Sat 11-12

This small joint on the I-35 service road is not exactly a full-service restaurant. Orders are placed at the counter, drinks are purchased at the Coke machine, and food is then retrieved at the counter when your order is complete. H&J does offer one service not available at most restaurants. For just $1.20/lb., they will smoke your meat out back in their smoker.

Smokemasterone and I shared a plate of ribs, sliced beef, beans and potato salad. The plate was stacked high with meat, and for $14 a plate, it should have been. The side of beans was smoky and flecked with green pepper and onion with a bold bbq flavor. The potato salad was merely grocery store grade. The spare ribs were chopped nearly beyond recognition, but the flavor was excellent. Although sauced, the crust on the ribs was well formed creating a good level of smokiness. The meat was deep red in color as well as moist and tender. The fat could have been more well rendered, but these were tasty ribs. A black crust and good deep smokeline on the brisket was promising, and the meat did not disappoint. Each bite contained a high level of smokiness, and the flavor of the crust reinforced the robust flavor of the beef. The well rendered fat contributed to the moist and tender slices. Whether coming in to this joint for a plate of ready-made 'cue, or trusting them to smoke my very own brisket, I'll surely be back.

Rating ***

Smokey Joe's Bar-B-Que

DALLAS: Smokey Joe's Bar-B-Que
6407 S R L Thornton Fwy
Dallas, TX 75232
214-371-8081
Open M 11-9, Tues-Thur 11-11, F-Sat 11-12, Sun 11-6

This tiny take-out only joint is just a few doors down from H & J BBQ. We entered through the large metal door, and immediately my nostrils were blasted with the sweet smell of hickory smoke. Ordering is done at a counter that is mere feet from the large smoker in the kitchen, so I was able to watch all of the BBQ production as I waited. I was also able to read the countless advertisements for various services on the wall including one for open semi-pro league football try-outs.

A few minutes later in my car, I opened the take-out container that weighed in as a true heavyweight. A heap of ribs and sliced brisket sat alongside a double order of whipped potato salad. Similar to H&J, the spare ribs were chopped down to small unrecognizable bits of pork. Unlike H&J's, these ribs contained gobs of unrendered fat and little meat. The meat that did remain held little of the smoke flavor I had expected based on my previous observations. The brisket was also lacking the expected smokiness. The meat was moist, but slightly tough, and any crust or fat had been trimmed leaving only monochromatic dark gray slices of beef. The potato salad was definitely homemade, but the amount of sugar added made is taste closer to ambrosia than spuds. Overall, it ws a bit disappointing for a $15 plate of 'cue. I might give this joint another chance, but it'll really just be an excuse to go next door to H&J's again.

Rating **