Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Lakeway Smokehouse

WYLIE: Lakeway Smokehouse
3995 Parker Rd.

Wylie, TX 75098
Open Sun-M 11-8, Tues-Sat 11-9

This joint is tucked along a corner adjacent to a gas station, and can be hard to locate. The interior is dark and smoky...a good sign. A large gruff man took our order, and a pleasant young kid took our money. We ordered brisket and ribs. They arrived sauced. The brisket had no crust, but was still smoky and nicely tender. It was hard to distinguish the meat's flavor from the sauce, but it was a decent brisket. The ribs had been stored for a while and were a bit mushy. What crust once existed had been made soggy, and no smoke line was present. I expected little smoke flavor, so I was surprised when smoke filled my mouth when I took the first bite. This was a mysterious smoke flavor...almost artificial. I dare say a bit of liquid smoke may have been added to get this intense flavor. I don't know what else would leave that tell-tale chemical aftertaste.

Rating **

Lakeway Smokehouse on Urbanspoon


Anonymous said...

I ate there this evening for dinner, it was close to home. Read your review and thought I would give it a try for some ribs. I wish I could eat the bones, they may have been better then the meat. The place was not too good. Next time I will drive by it and not stop.

JohnM said...

I live within a mile of this place and won't even consider it. I've never seen or smelled as much as a whiff of smoke coming from the place. The lack of crust and faint chemical after taste is from the preparation and packaging of the meat in some far away plant, I'd suspect.


Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.