Monday, August 15, 2011

Old Town Market

LEWISVILLE: Old Town Market
301 S Mill St

Lewisville, TX 75057


Open F 7:30-6 (For BBQ Menu)

While the current ownership has only been around a couple of years, this meat market has been doing business in Lewisville since 1977. The location isn't too far from the highway but seems miles away from the nearby chain restaurants. While it's primary function is that of a purveyor of fine butchered meats and homemade sausages, there is also barbecue on the marker board menu in the back. Sausage and chopped brisket sandwiches are available daily, but folks in the know wait until Friday to get their full barbecue plate of sliced brisket, pork ribs, beans and slaw.

It's hard to resist the bright yellow deviled eggs displayed in the case, and why not grab a few hollowed out jalapenos stuffed with pimiento cheese? Both were simple and satisfying. Beans were barely doctored out of the can with a bit of heat, but the chopped slaw was excellent. Crispy chunks of cabbage were lightly dressed with mayo and a kick from garlic was added. Although the ribs were a bit chewy, they came easily enough from the bone, had a flavorful rub and exuded a good level of smokiness. Thickly sliced brisket was over tender and had little crust or smokering, so I was surprised to get so much flavor in each slice. This was good brisket made even better with a dip in their homemade sauce which was tomato based with plenty of worchestershire.

Hillshire Farm sausage sandwich and homemade smoked German sausage

But sausage is the star here. Their website touts the many flavors they sell, a case of frozen sausage greets you as you make your way the back counter where ten or so varieties are available raw or smoked. Needless to say, I wanted some of that sausage. A heavy to-go container reeked of good smoke as I opened it with great anticipation. The menu said only "Smoked Sausage" so would I get the German sausage or perhaps the bratwurst? Neither. This bastion of artisanal sausage making had not chosen to highlight one of its own products, but instead chose to fill my sandwich with Endless Black Oak sausage from Hillshire Farm. After confirming this with the owner I was speechless and unable to utter a screeching "REALLY!?!" in Seth Meyers fashion. I try to use this blog to share opinions about barbecue, and not as a forum to tell folks how to run their already successful businesses, but in this case I must plead with Old Town Market for my own sanity. Why on earth would you reach for a link of salty, greasy, mass produced link sausage that can be had anywhere when you could just as easily top your sausage sandwich with a fine smoked sausage THAT YOU MAKE IN YOUR OWN STORE? I implore you to at least offer your own sausage as an option. Maybe the profit margins aren't there. Charge more, and we will pay. We've all had enough Hillshire Farm.

Rating ***
Old Town Meat Market on Urbanspoon


Dustin said...

Good post. Did they have any good reason for using commercial sausage? That's unbelievable.

King Voodoo said...

Glad to see you finally made it to the place!

I am surprised about the sausage also, but I never get it.

I always get the sliced beef and the hot links and I am pretty sure they make those but now I will have to ask.


Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.