Charlie's BBQ

EAGLE PASS: Charlie's BBQ

242 Ford St.

Eagle Pass, TX 78852

830-773-6052

Open Sun-M 11-4, Tue-Sat 11-7

Smoke from a large barrel smoker out front was wafting across the narrow street. Just a few booths were inside the tiny dining room with direct views into the small kitchen. A soda delivery guy promised this was the best barbecue in town, but I had my doubts when I saw brisket slices going into a saute pan to be heated for my order.

A few links of sausage were warmed on a flat top, and I'm not sure they saw the inside of the smoker. After eating a bite of the absolutely flavorless brisket, I was beginning to suspect the smoker out front was all for show. The beef tasted boiled, but not long enough to render out the considerable amount of white fat still clinging to the meat. I was almost afraid to open the next box.

Mutton ribs require a deft and experienced hand to temper the gaminess from the thick layers of fat. Opening the box I smelled a rush of what I can only explain as the intense odor of the sheep barns in the county fair days of my youth. Meat and fat shared the same persistent shade of gray. I had to take a bite for posterity, though I dreaded it. The meat was awful and also had the consistency of boiled meat with clean bones separating easily form the meat. At the end of the meal I could only feel bad for the soda man. This is the best he can get in Eagle Pass.

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