Thursday, January 3, 2013

CB's Bar-B-Que

728 North 14th St.
Kingsville, TX 78363
Open M-Thur 11-8, F-Sat 11-9

I haven't been inside many barbecue joints that were also geodesic domes, but this was one futuristic joint in the middle of cattle country. Owner and pitmaster Jerry Miller built the place 17 years back. Mesquite smoke was pouring out of the smoker room attached to the backside of the dome, so I was getting hungry at this first stop of the day.

There just wasn't much to like about the menu. Brisket was bone dry and shoe leather chewy. The ribs were just as dry and had somehow escaped all of that smoke. Sausage was so dry that the skin flaked off. The jalapeno corn was surprisingly bland and the beans were overseasoned with a mix that tasted like the holidays - not a great plate of food.

I thought a slice of sweet potato pie would cure things for the ride north, but it was served cold right out the fridge, and the dense pie lacked punch. It was just another in a string of disappointments at CB's.

Rating *

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Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.