Thursday, January 10, 2013

KD’s Bar-B-Q

3109 Garden City Hwy
Midland, TX 79701
Open Tue-Thur 11-8, F-Sat 11-9

Walking up the ramp into the main entrance at KD's you're greeted by a large black pit with a huge metal lid. Meats and some of the hot sides are on display under that lid much like the way the menu is displayed at Cooper's and Hard 8. Overall, the meat looked great despite the time of day a few hours after noon and a pleasant surprise of smoked corn and simple smoked jalapenos made for a good looking tray of food.

The corn that looked so promising hadn't a whiff of smoke. The jalapenos were much better, but with all the seeds intact they packed a wallop on the palate. The commercial jalapeno sausage at least had good snap and decent smoke from the mesquite. Jet black brisket looked like it might be some exemplary stuff, but the meat had suffered considerably from being wrapped and stored all day. All the smoke was there, but the spongy meat had gotten overcooked and soggy. The well rendered fat and nice smokering makes me think this might have been great about five hours earlier. The ribs had the opposite problem in that they were a bit undercooked. I guess it's understandable with these giant spare ribs, but at least the meat had good smoke and the generous seasoning of salt and pepper make for some pretty good pork. If I go back again, I'll make sure it's just before the lunch rush.

Rating ***

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Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.