NACOGDOCHES: Harlon's BBQ 603 Old Tyler Road
Nacogdoches, TX 75964
936-564-4850
Open Tues 11-9, W-Thur 11-10, F-Sat 11-1am
This joint feels more like a sports bar than a BBQ house, but I guess that's why the word "Entertainment" is featured on the sign out front. Ordering is still done a cafeteria line, and you can watch the meat being cut in front of you. This can be a bad thing if you'd eaten as many plates of 'cue as I have since you can tell before the brisket's even been sliced that you're not going to enjoy the results.
I was asked whether or not I wanted sauce (a plus), and I asked for it on the side. Another plus about this joint is the range of soul food sides. The green beans I got were well seasoned and tasty, and the greens were also flavorful. Ribs had a nice bark and good flavor from a rub heavy in black pepper. The spare ribs were plenty tender if a bit dry, but I'd order them again. Especially given the brisket option. The slices, or rather chunks from the point end were riddled with unrendered and chewy fat globules. The bark had been trimmed from the meat which made it virtually flavorless. I stopped after two terrible bites. The ribs and sides saved this joint from a single star.
Rating **
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