Thursday, January 31, 2013

Balderas Grocery & Bar-B-Que


WAELDER: Balderas Grocery & Bar-B-Que
419 W Us Highway 90
Waelder, TX 78959
830-788-7155
Open M-Sat 6:30am - 9pm


Update: This joint is CLOSED. It will open on 04/15/13 as Crossvine Market & Bar-B-Que.

2012: I read about this joint on another blog and it really got my hopes up. Even if the old Eureste's had changed hands, we were hoping for some well smoked meats at the new version called Waelder Grocery. When we pulled up to the parking space along the street we noticed that it had changed hands again, and the new name was Baldera's Grocery. A guy working the register motioned towards the back of the store when we asked about the barbecue. Through a couple of doors and past a make-shift dining area we found the pit room. The old brick pit looked well worn which kept hopes high, but it took a few minutes before someone showed up to get our order.


The brisket was so over cooked that it came apart in chunks. A bit of mashed potatoes and gravy would have been more appropriate accompaniments than barbecue sauce. It was just sad roast beef. Pork ribs were so dry that edges were frayed as they were cut from the rack. They had been wrapped up tight for some time, so what once was bark was now wet and gummy. The only saving grace was a well spiced sausage with some kick from garlic and spices along with some unexpected herbal notes. It had good smoke, but like everything else had dried out considerably. It might be the same building and the same pit, but it didn't seem like this joint was up to the level of the other joints that have called this building home.

Rating ** 

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DISCLAIMER:

Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.

-THE PROPHETS OF SMOKED MEAT