Thursday, January 10, 2013

Hog Heaven B-B-Q

BIG SPRING: Hog Heaven B-B-Q
4009 Old State Highway 80 
Big Spring, TX 79720
Open M-Sat 11-8

The guy behind the counter here didn't know much about what wood they used or how they smoked the meats, and the girl behind the cash register wasn't much help either. At least he knew what I meant when I asked for both fatty and lean brisket. His preference for sauce was the jalapeno cheese, and he confirmed that it came from a Sysco truck.

That brisket wasn't half bad. A fatty slice had well rendered fat, a nice crust with good smokiness. A little more salt and pepper would have helped tremendously. The lean slice was a bit tough, but above average. Pork ribs were ridiculously sweet, but at least well cooked. That jalapeno sausage was way to salty with loads of precessed cheese. A complimentary mini-loaf of corn bread was a nice touch, but the watery beans were bland. One item they need to eliminate altogether are the 'armadillo eggs'. These bacon wrapped smoked jalapenos were smoked over a smoldering fire with poor quality smoke and loads of it. The flavor was as if they'd been marinated in a used ashtray. It's odd that brisket would shine through on an otherwise mediocre menu. Maybe I just got lucky.

Rating **

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Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.